1994 Luis Felipe Edwards Cabernet Sauvignon Colchagua (Chile) $6.30

While not exactly luscious, this dark garnet is fairly rich, round and medium full to full bodied, with flavors and aromas of cassis/black cherry/spice/brown sugar/vanilla and hints of raspberries. Initial green vegetal notes detract a little, but blow off with air to reveal a wine with a surprisingly lush mouthfeel, for so few dollars. It finishes slightly port-like; decant it half an hour before drinking. My original notes read "What makes you taste so good?! GREAT QPR!!!"

Imported by William Grant and Sons, Inc., New York, NY

1994 Luis Felipe Edwards Cabernet Sauvignon Colchagua Reserva $9.99

As one might expect, the Reserva bottling from this producer is even better than the terrific regular bottling. Although it doesn’t fit the strict parameters of Wine Probation, it’s so tasty, I’ve been given limited license to obtain some of this. Dark garnet, with good (but not too much) oak, it shows a somewhat Oz-like bouquet of black cherries/ milk chocolate/vanilla/ brown sugar and a bit of blueberry. These impressions follow through on the palate, with added notes of cedar/ leather/earth; a wee green streak in the background evaporates with air. Full bodied and rather rich and lush in the mouth, this is a more focused, refined version of the regular model, and has great complexity and stuffing for a $9 bottle of wine. Amazing QPR!

Both wines are available at The Merchant’s Warehouse, in Royal Oak, MI, and Village Corners, in Ann Arbor.

Imported by William Grant and Sons, Inc., New York, NY

Now, If We Lived in L.A.…

1996 Ibernoble Ribera del Duero Red Table Wine; $7.99 at Wine Exchange; $10.99 in Tenafly

...this would be our #1 Best Buy, hands down. Still, it's worth the 11 bucks in "Joisey;" I get it shipped for ten, so it rates as a Bastardo's Best Buy. (Not to be found around Day-twah; bummer.) A rich ruby garnet color, this is also rather lush in the mouth, with good acidity. The first impression in my notes reads "Wow! Chocolate nose!" As it opens, flavors and aromas also reveal big rich red currant/ black cherry/ plum, with overtones of toast and boysenberry. The Director notes cocoa powder and talc. There's nothing delicate or refined about this wine; it pleases because of its concentration and fruit. It’d be interesting to taste this in a few years, but I can’t keep my hands off now! If it's in your neighborhood, buy it by the case at either price!

Imported by Vineyard Brands Inc., Chester, Vermont

GANG OF POOR?
Wine Probation Whites

A number of good QPR wines have popped up over the years in the bargain bins of Village Corners in Ann Arbor, Michigan. Owner Dick Scheer stocks a particularly impressive selection of French and German wines, and indeed, Alsatian Pinot Blancs with a few years age have been especially attractive lately. The only problem is, when they're gone, they're gone (or so it would seem). But then, others keep popping up to take their places…

1992 Meyer-Fonne Pinot Blanc $5.99

I figured I'd see no more of these after New Years day, when we grabbed the "last two" on the shelf, along with a nice '92 Julien Meyer Pinot Blanc for the same price. (Sadly, no notes were taken on the latter; they should be included here. However, it was a very pleasant wine for the price, with a similar flavor profile to the Meyer-Fonne.) Went back a month later for more of the J.M, and it's gone; but, there was the M-F again, so what the hey!

Fully mature, this is a pale gold, with a pretty herbal/slightly floral nose. In the mouth, it's a little fat, and slightly oily, with just enough acidity to keep it on its feet. The dry flavors of pear/wet stone/mineral/herb are a little pungent; as it opens in the glass over a few hours, it takes on a somewhat piney, resinous quality. This is one that I can sip and savor slowly throughout the evening, and that's not a bad bottom line, when you think about it.

Imported by World Shippers and Importers Co., Philadelphia, Pa.

1989 Gustav Lorentz Pinot Blanc Reserve Alsace $6.99

This has been gone for a few months now, but it was indicative of the deals the can be found at Village Corners. Medium straw color, soft, mature and a little oily in the mouth. The pretty nose featured apple/pine/rose petal aromas, with a faint hint of petrol. The flavors were similar, with a "wet stone" element that became more apparent as it opened over four hours. Very nice, especially for the price.

Just two more reasons why I've got an insatiable taste for Alsatians. };^)

Two House Favorites

1995 Verichon et Clerc Blanc de Blancs Cuvee Privee $8.99-$9.99

1996 Georges Duboeuf Viognier Vin de Pays de L'Ardeche $8.99-$9.99

Here are two more whites that have become staples at our house over the past year or two, for both their consistent quality, and their agreeable price tag.

The Duboeuf Viognier is the second vintage in a row that we've enjoyed at Gang Central over the last few years, with its medium straw color, medium full body, and lovely floral overtones of violet, lilac, and honeysuckle. This one is slightly oily (not unlike an Alsatian), not too acidic, and features rich pear flavors and aromas with more than a hint of herbs, and an occasional whiff of smoke. Always satisfying, no matter what season, it is another fine alternative to Chardonnay and Sauvignon, and lately, the price has actually DROPPED a dollar! Available at both Village Corners and Merchant’s Warehouse.

Imported by Winesellers Ltd., Skokie, Illinois

The '95 Verichon et Clerc Blanc de Blancs is also the second vintage of this fine bargain sparkler favored at our house. It's a pale straw, with a veritable plethora of bubbles that just don't quit. It's a bit pungent on the nose and palate, with apple/ pear/kiwi fruit, and notes of cider. What it lacks in finesse, it more than makes up for in big fruit flavors. It never fails to satisfy, and often serves as a good every day white, especially in the summer months.

Imported by L'Aiglon Wine & Spirits Import Co. Inc., Miami, Fla.

And Then There’s the Old Standby…

1997 Lindemans Bin 65 Chardonnay South Eastern Australia $7.99

For the longest time, I felt that I shouldn’t like this wine; it has such bright, upfront fruit flavors in a style that I’ve never really favored. And yet, for the past several years, whenever I’ve tasted it, I just couldn’t help but remark "Damn, that’s a nice glass o’ wine!" I guess there’s a reason why this is a perennial Best Buy in most of the major wine rags.

Medium gold and medium to medium full bodied, this shows nice spicy/toasty oak on the nose and palate, with pleasing pear/melon/tropical fruit flavors that are extremely consistent from vintage to vintage. It has lively acidity, and is very much in the Lindemans "house" style. And, for $7.20 per, I simply don’t know of a better Chardonnay (or Sauvignon, for that matter). The best part is, they make TONS of the stuff, so it should be readily available in most major markets. Another one to buy by the case.

Imported by Southcorp Wines North America, Monterey, CA 93940

Côtes du Rhône-down 4/02

  Red Wings & Red Rhones 2002