Mo' Better Burgess 

About 4 weeks after our visit to Burgess Cellars, we reconvened at Gang Central to sample the wines that had so generously been given to us. Unfortunately, Bree couldn’t be with us because he was a bit preoccupied traipsing around France. But, Alan Kerr was here, and Charter Gangster Scott Tobias AKA The Geek showed up as well. Besides the bottles that had been gifted to us, Kim and I picked up another selection to top off the tasting. Once we were all assembled, we wasted little time in getting right down to it, and as is so often our wont, we started with the white stuff.

1999 Burgess Napa Chardonnay, $18, 12.9% alc.: The fruit for this medium straw-pale gold Chardonnay comes from vineyards in the southern part of Napa Valley; it was aged sur lie and given 100% malolactic fermentation in French Vosges barrels. Unfortunately, the oak overwhelms just about every other aspect of the wine. It shows big, sweet toasty oak, vanilla and coconut over pear on the nose, and turns to butterscotch on the palate. It has decent acidity and a reasonably long finish, but the verdict was unanimous; there’s just too much oak, Mozart! This was especially disappointing for this taster, who still has fond memories of the 1990 Burgess Triere Vineyard Chardonnay, a ravishing glass of wine that we went through many bottles of several years back.

Burgess Napa Zinfandel, $22, 14.2% alc.: The same Zin that we "opened up our eyes with" at the Burgess residence, we were able to get to know it a little better this time around. There’s a big hit of sweet toasty oak on the nose and palate, but it has the deep raspberry, mulberry and boysenberry fruit to soak it all up. Alan added impressions of pepper, a little bit of plum and a lot of berry on the nose, along with maraschino cherry (not ultra-sweet) on the finish. With its smooth texture and chocolate-y texture, it’s not too tannic, with good acidity, and if it finishes somewhat abruptly, that’s the only complaint with an otherwise very user friendly red. It almost reminds me of those Burgess Zins that we used to worship back in the late ‘70s.

1998 Burgess Napa Cabernet Sauvignon Vintage Selection, 83% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Cabernet Franc, 8% Merlot, $34, 13% alc.: This dark garnet is remarkably approachable for its youth, and very enjoyable for what was supposed to be a poor vintage. From fruit grown on the terraced, western exposed Estate vineyard, the wine just screams Cabernet Sauvignon, with flavors and aromas of cassis, black currant and plum, accented by notes of tobacco and leather, and a little sea air on the nose. Alan noted some cherry and violet, calling the fruit "explosive," and The Geek got a hint of mint out of this. While the tannins aren’t intrusive, there should be no problem with this developing until its 10^th birthday. It has all the acidity it needs, a good finish, and is an excellent match for lamb and tri-tip kabobs. If a $35 bottle of wine can have excellent QPR (quality – price ratio), then this is it!

1991 Burgess Napa Cabernet Sauvignon Vintage Selection Library Release, 78% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc, $48, 13% alc.: Burgess Cabernet Sauvignon is aged for 30 months in oak, then another 18 months in bottle before being released when its 4 years old. However, about 2,000 cases are held until they are 10 years old, and are designated as the Library Release. This particular model is a slightly rusty dark garnet, with rich cassis, plum and tobacco character, along with what Mr. Kerr described as cocoa powder, still noticeable sandy tannins and lively acidity, exclaiming, "That’s intense, isn’t it?" And Kim couldn’t help but remark upon the "pretty, pretty nose." As it develops in the glass, more and more tobacco – cigar box comes out, and the finish is long and lingering. This bottle has none of the slight mustiness of another tasted about 3 months ago (though that previous taste was also quite enjoyable). This is pure, beautiful Cabernet Sauvignon, unadorned with excess oak, and a sheer pleasure to drink now, though it will certainly improve for some time. We were especially pleased to pick this bottle up at our local Costco for $39.99, making it one of the best bargains we’ve run into in some time.

On the whole, we were very impressed with the Cabs and the Zin, which more than offset the underwhelming Chardonnay. Burgess Cellars has quietly gone about the business of making excellent wines for 30 years, without following fads or adopting trendy techniques. Personally, I much prefer these to the overblown fruit bombs that cost many dollars more, and will continue to plan my buying strategy accordingly.

Burgess Cellars
1108 Deer Park Road
St. Helena, CA 94574
Mailing Address:
P.O. Box 282
St. Helena, CA 94574
phone: (800) 752-9463
fax: (707) 963-8774

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June 2002