2006 Dom. Jean Masson Vin de Savoie Apremont VV -- Some wondered if this might be Gruner Veltliner, while others thought it might be Chenin from the Loire -- why do I feel I'm being profiled by my friends? This Savagnin based wine is so charming and delicate with its wispy floral tones and white stone fruit fragrances... concentrated lemon, crunchy greenery and a mineral core when sipped. It is a compelling drink -- easy, but seemingly always revealing a bit more about itself. Splendid wine that is shockingly available (even) in Ohio for less than $15! Find this wine

2002 Alois Lageder Pinot Grigio Benefizium Porer -- Peanut butter scents (Creamy Jif, to be specific) mingle with ripe peach. It is full in the mouth...I'm inclined to say smooth and creamy, but I think that is just the peanut butter perception dominating me. Lemons and rocks are scattered over the landscape. It has decent acids and a good attitude, but I catch my myself looking back at the wine from Savoie and then sighing. Find this wine

 

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(L)  Roland Riesen and Eric Baker

As noted earlier, all the wines were bagged, but the seven were known in advance (4 Super Tuscans and 3 Brunello). I suggested that we try to determine the differences (if any) between the Super Tuscans (potentially Cabernet, Merlot, Syrah, etc. inclusive), and the (by law, if not always in practice)100% Sangiovese Grosso Brunello. We also searched for the Solaia (the only wine that was largely Cabernet), to see if it was clearly discernible from its brethren. Any other guessing (educated or otherwise) was at the tasters own risk.

The Tuscans were not decanted or otherwise "aired." The corks were pulled at around 5:45 pm (thankfully no TCA tinged bottles) and were poured in one large flight around 8 pm. The wines were pondered for two hours or more in the glass. Though it is possible that optimum moment of bliss was missed by not decanting as to FDA recommended lengths, I tend to prefer to watch whatever evolution presents itself.


A -- 1997 Antinori Tignanello (80% Sangiovese/20% Cabernet) -- This shows deep, rich scents of brown spice, turned earth, mahogany and sandalwood...later, something akin to Worcestershire sauce. Black fruits, earth and lightly spicy oak dominate the palate, but tobacco, iron and mint are featured in the close. The tannins are smooth and relatively easy. The acids are obviously key in the wines vitality, but not especially prominent. This is wonderfully "drinkable" right now. It was not one of my very favorites on the night, but this was a very strong field.  I believed this wine to be the Siepi, as that has largely been a wine that has always proved delicious and accessible since release. This seemed to be a reasonable progression for that wine, where the Sangiovese perhaps began to dominate the Merlot. I was mildly surprised that it was the Tignanello, as I have sampled that wine a number of times previously -- often seeming fiercely tannic. Wines do vary from bottle to bottle.
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B -- 1997 Altesino Brunello di Montalcino Montosoli

Initially offering a sweaty/funky aroma, along with a bit of alcoholic heat, the bouquet eventually settles in with worn leather and spice. Juicy cherry is plentiful when first sipped, eventually met by an impressive tannic crunch. This wine showed great evolution as each minute passed -- soft and full, yet progressively more graceful and long. Blood, earth, herbs, flowers and charred meat all weave themselves into the tapestry...this wine really speaks to my own impressions of Tuscany.  I believed this to be a Brunello -- probably the Altesino, as I felt slightly more familiar with the other two. In any case, I found it quite impressive. A few ounces remained in the bottle the next day -- remarkably even more core complex and harmonious. Find this wine

C -- 1997 Castello di Fonterutoli Siepi (50% Merlot/50% Sangiovese)

This was profoundly minty on the first pass, but this element found harmony with bits of chocolate, violets, anise and ripe black fruit to form an enticing aroma. Wet, juicy, and open up front -- cassis, black raspberry and dark chocolate run long and deep. The tannins offer a slightly coarse counterpoint, while the acids lend the wine a welcome brightness amidst all that dark goodness. Like others on the table, this wine continues to unfold, offering new subtleties and enticements. This strikes me as a very complete wine, both appealing and intriguing. I believed this to be the Tignanello largely on its tannic strength, but this bottle certainly seemed to show Siepi and may indeed still have more upside in development, even if it was very enjoyable at present.
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D -- 1997 Frescobaldi CastelGiocondo Brunello di Montalcino Riserva

The nose of orange peel and cream soda seemed rather unique in this setting, but as time went by, they were part of the overall package when joined by dried cherries and leather. It is soft and easy up front with sweet, dried cherry flavor, then it develops a little street cred, by rumbling through some rocky soil. Orange peel returns in the longish, earthy finish...tannins taking a light nip at the gums. It is light and focused...presently appealing, but not especially compelling. I was fairly certain it was Brunello, but I was uncertain as to which it might be. I have sampled this wine a few times previously, but it impressed me as deeper, more structured, and largely more interesting in the past. Sipping the remains the following day, it had all but collapsed. In contrast to my opinion, Loren and Jeff Faunce listed this among their favorites and had offered a good bit more praise. Find this wine

E -- 1997 Ciacci Piccolomini D' Aragona Brunello di Montalcino

This wine generated the most initial discussion. Jeff Faunce remarked on "tar," and not pleasantly so. Dick Lamb referenced its vegetative nature. Eric Baker thought it had a "synthetic" quality about it. I thought it had far and away the most reluctant nose of the bunch, but in short order it issued the familiar fragrance package of leather, iron, dried cherry and earth. A fine powder of herbs blew through, though if anything, I found them enhancing the experience, rather than off putting. Like the nose, the palate steadily progressed with sweet and tart cherries, game and some of the aforementioned tar. Perhaps more than in any other wine on the table, the acids really sparkled here -- lending it a lift and a mouth watering quality. In comparison, it may have lacked some complexity found in other wines, but it seems to just now reaching an early sense of maturity. Find this wine

F -- 1997 Antinori Solaia (80% Cabernet Sauvignon/20% Sangiovese)

This one smells like a Cabernet. It conveys enticing scents of graphite, leather, ripe currants and herbal/anise tones. The wine is soft, sweet and gentle at the outset, but rapidly turns broad and taut. Black currants and herbs are skillfully wrangled by the polished, long reaching tannins and understated, but effective acids. The structural elements seeming distinctly "Tuscan" to my perceptions, versus Bordeaux, etc. There is plenty of length here, involving a myriad of tertiary delights -- peppery anise being perhaps the most noticeable. It seemed to me that this was the Solaia (largest percentage of Cabernet), but perhaps not as obviously as I imagined -- only one other taster in a very good bunch shared a similar opinion.  The Solaia sometimes suffers from its own "success" (Wine Spectator anointing it "Wine of the Year"), but it is an excellent wine, full of character, distinction and balance. Cabernet based wines are not frequently those that appeal to me most, but I thought this to be a superb example. It is not overdone...to the contrary, it exudes cool control of its elements. It is complex, with the promise of far more.  Find this wine

G -- 1997 Argiano Solengo (Cabernet, Sangiovese, Merlot, and Syrah)

Wow, here is a real switch -- a full blown woody and tropical nose. Mint and chocolate, then blueberry joins the bouquet over time. Eric Baker mentions "evergreen". It is full, sweet, and creamy in the mouth featuring blueberries, cassis, and prune. The fruit shows good persistence, still riding high above a bevy of barrel bestowed charms. It is long and peppery as it heads towards a noticeably tannic close. This must be the Solengo. This is the only wine on the table that holds no appeal to me, but that said, it is hardly a horror show for my gentile perceptions.
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This was an exceptional group of wines. The prices are a bit frightening (averaging well over $100 each), but I found the quality unmistakable. None of the wines seemed adversely effected by age. Across the board, the fruit levels seemed adequate, if not impressive. The tannins that once dominated these bottlings are still assertive, but have rolled back enough to allow character and nuance to be more prominent players. Tastes will vary, but I would imagine almost all will reward further time in the cellar. The Solengo (which is in remarkably good shape so as to convey its style) is perhaps the exception to note.

The Siepi (a consensus favorite amongst the group), the Altesino Montosoli, and the Solaia stood out to me as personal favorites. Each was unique in what elements they brought to the glass, but all three brought a heart and harmony that struck a chord with me. All the wines (save the Solengo) were wines I would enjoy drinking over an evening, rather than being interesting wines to taste.

LM