Loren Sonkin brought forth a 2001 Zind Humbrecht Riesling Gueberschwihr  that many rightfully found to be a tough contrast with the Christoffel. There was some question as to whether or not this was a sound bottle, but I thought a bit of air time and palate readjustment provided good results. Intense scents of diesel and slate persisted throughout the evening, but they married nicely with tart apples and white flowers. This was on the lighter side of Zind Humbrecht wines I have sampled, but by no means was this under fruited. Grapefruits and guava flavors combine with a mineral core and good acid levels to make a very nice drink. This would have been best suited as an element of a meal rather than as an aperitif, but still quite good. Find this wine

We headed to the table after I gave an impassioned speech against the boiling of fresh, delicious corn (quick steaming, please), only to meet more barbarians at the gate -- their butter at the ready. I found little to offend me in the simple, enticing presentation of the sumptuous heirlooms (red and yellow Brandywine, Peach Fuzz, and Mortgage Lifter), or the tasty pizzas right from the box. With our gastronomic souls intact, it was time to sample red wines.

The first three wines were offered incognito -- unknown to all but those who poured, they were placed in a diverse collection of the Warren family flower vases. I admire the use of alternate wine vessels -- good conversation pieces and more money to spend on more important things!

My opening red was a bit thin at the rim, and mostly purple at the center -- not optically offensive. The fragrances were earthy and herbal, featuring a big blast of tobacco. This put me in mind more of "rustic" Bordeaux, than my beloved backwoods Loire. Once sipped it seemed largely tannic and filled with interesting earth tones. Fruit flavors were not prominent (perhaps a splash of black cherry or dark plums), but a mélange of herb and powdery mineral were enticing. Its "suede" textures were appealing. Though this wine has likely seen its best days the sum was still greater than its parts. After a number of swirls, sips, and spits I guessed "Southwest France"...and eventually "Cahors."  Loren Sonkin, who brought this wine with both Tom and me in mind (known "haters of fruit", we are), asked about its age -- I thought it to be in the neighborhood of 1989. They turned out to be a decent guesses -- 1982 Chateau du Cayrou Cahors.  Loren told us this bottle was purchased from Chambers Street in New York a few years back. In looking at the pristine labels, I would imagine this was some sort of cellar release. Find this wine

From the occupant of the more curvaceous container I found many sweet cherry and candied scents, along with mint and chocolate. Wisps of alcohol tickled my nose. Once sipped it showed plenty of red, ripe fruit, but it came across as fat. There were bits of seared beef and spice, too... rising heat and menthol through the finish. It lacked structure and it was hard to see it improving with time. This one struck me as a warm climate, "from anywhere" sort of wine -- I eventually guessed a "new wave Syrah blend from Languedoc...maybe a 2000 or 2003." It was surprising in some ways to learn it was the 2000 Domaine Charvin Chateauneuf-du-Pape,  as I had enjoyed both the 1998 and 1999 in the past few months -- both seeming to be more well rounded, yet still fruit focused wines. Find this wine
 

There was no need for me to guess on this one, as it was the bottle I had brought along -- 2000 Thierry Allemand Cornas "Sans Soufre."
This was a bottling we indulgently gulped on our fantastic trip through the Rhone, etc  years ago. I had sampled this a few times since, but not in the last year. It has maintained the telltale Allemand freshness in both its demeanor and abundant black raspberry fruit. There remains a good bit of tannin, and reasonable acids keep that fruit in line. Some herbs are scattered about, and there is roasted beast to nibble upon, but the cold granite I've grown to expect seems absent. In general, I (as did the others assembled) found the wine to be quite enjoyable, but perhaps a bit compartmentalized at present... just short of harmony. I know some worry about cellaring these unsulfured bottles, but as mine were hand carried from France and safely tucked in a cool Ohio cellar to slumber, I am inclined to hold my remaining few for a while. Allemand has yet to disappoint me. Find this wine

Perhaps we were out of large glassware, as Roland Riesen (right) left the 1998 Vieux Telegraphe Chateauneuf-du-Pape in the original container. Many bottles of this wine have been sacrificed in gatherings like our own since the day it was released. I continue to believe it is a wine of potential, and not yet ready for maximum enjoyment. However, like Jeff King, there are many experienced lovers of the grape who believe "it is what it is" and not likely to ever be better. Regardless of what the future holds, it was not a great pleasure on this night. The fruit remains strong, and slanted toward darker shades of red. Asian spice and tobacco decorate the warm, earthy landscapes of the midpalate and finish. The tannins and acids form an athletic structure. The components remain intriguing, but this wine lacks cohesion at present. Find this wine

Jeff added the 2001 Domaine le Sang des Cailloux Vacqueyras Cuvee Floureto to the table. It had that sort of barnyard/ bretty stink that in other situations would have you checking your shoes -- still, many of us are tolerant of such odors in our wines, and as minutes passed it was a happy reminder of your last trip to the country. Sturdy black fruit powers the nose and palate where it was nicely spun together with game and strong coffee. The tannins will take a good bite out of your gums -- with no wild boar on hand, the red pizza proved to be an ample salve. I'm told this sells for about $20, which makes it a very nice buy, as well as being an excellent Vacqueyras. Find this wine

There was surprising interest in the Loire reds that I had in my bag, so I was happy to open the 2002 Catherine and Pierre Breton Clos Senechal Bourgueil later in the evening. This featured a substantial but altogether different brand of funk than the Vacqueyras -- perhaps a bit more "horse" and "sweaty saddle leather." As minutes pass, said funk dissipated and left leafy tobacco and a floral tinge in its wake. The tangy blackberry fruits speaks to freshness and purity. Tannins? Yes, they were muscular and continued to glare at the fruit. Acids bring a pleasant rise to the finish, albeit shortening things just a bit. This certainly would have benefited from an hour in a vase.

A quick look around my cellar would give clear indications that I'm rarely in a hurry to open my wines, mostly buying bottles that I believe will add the nuances and textures I enjoy with time on the shelf. This Clos Senechal would seem to be an exception for me -- I'm certain that this wine will get better and better for my tastes, but I feel strangely compelled to have this adolescent Bourgueil wake up and entertain guests. A wine like this is thankfully not for everyone (weighing in at 11.7% alc), but priced in the low to mid $20's, I'll need to buy more. Find this wine

Do you heat your pie? Ice cream on the side, or straight up? Roland seemed aghast that Tom wanted to stick Marion Berry in the oven, and then lob something frozen over it... oh well, at least I saved the corn.

The 1982 Chateau-Chalon Jura  was not a "pie wine," but none of these really were. It had an attractive nose that some described as "nutty... Fino sherry-like". That worked for me. It was interesting to sniff, though bitter and challenging to sip. Find this wine Tom brought out another bagged wine which was eventually shown to be 1996 Domaine Phillipe Delesvaux SGN Coteaux du Layon. I could not peg this as Chenin Blanc, or even Loire. It was immensely sweet, with the sugar seeming to have a texture all of its own. Oranges, honey and vinyl shower curtains were present all the while. Loren perceived good acidity, but I thought the sweetness consumed whatever there was. Find this wine Tom seemed to like the 1996 Chapoutier Banyuls for its lightless of being, but most others found it thin, oxidized and lacking interest. Find this wine

Good times!

LM