Our
friends came to visit this past weekend. They came bearing
intriguing bottles of wine, glorious food stuffs, and more than
ample warmth for the unseasonably cold and wet days. There was
plenty of cooking, tidying, shopping, napping, debating,
sipping... reading, wrestling, and gaming with my high energy
kids. These folks pitch in and participate -- I always tell
my wife Mary it's more like having family visit than any guests.
On Friday we ate the fruit of
Kim's great labor
-- the cassoulet (at left, ready for the oven)! Layers of white beans, sausages and duck confit all served bubbling hot in a
grand ceramic vessel. There was a delightful red quinoa "ancient grains from a cardboard box" --
(apparently once a favorite of the Inca people) studded with the requisite roasted beets, tossed green salad, and then chocolate
lava cakes and matching ice cream magically leapt from one of the
Graeter coolers. The
Cardinals won the Series, but only a few people seemed to care.
Our man in Detroit (geo t. could not make the trip) was sad the
Tigers lost and cold because his furnace malfunctioned... we were
all glad when his heat was restored! Some wondered and then
worried if
John Blackwood and
Trinka Dykes would ever
arrive...eventually they were greeted with hoots, hollers and
sighs of relief.
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I cannot chronicle all of the many wines that
were opened, but I do offer my hindsight observations (and a few
comments from others) on a significant portion of them.
Friday Wines --
2004
Labranche Laffont Pacheranc du Vic-Bilh Sec Blanc -- We
scratched our heads as to what this wine actually was, or
where it might be from. The atlas confirmed it was from the Madiran area of France and we learned it was composed from
Petit Manseng and Gros Manseng grapes. It featured tangy
lemon and lots of stone -- all backed by good amounts of
herb and chamomile tea. Odd stuff which I liked better when resampling it Saturday -- more harmonious, less sour in the
close.
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2005 Getariako Txakolina
Ameztoi -- This was the edgy stuff, and I loved it.
It was lean, dry and precise with all its sharp edged
stones, white grapefruit and mouthwatering acids. It is not
for the faint of heart.
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NV Toffoli Prosecco --
Florida Jim always enjoyed my "riding a shopping cart through the
parking lot" description of this wine... It remains a fun and
worthwhile distraction.
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1990 Salomon Kogl Reserve Riesling --
Some of these can show a good measure of petrol, but this was
restrained in that aspect. It had lovely floral, honey and stone
laced scents. Its flavors followed suit, adding some apricot and
candied lemon -- excellent concentration. Its acids splash
across the palate like waves on rocks -- it has a firm presence
-- dry and long. I can see this developing favorably with more
years in the cellar, but it is a sensual and intellectual
delight for present drinking. This one was easy to recall.
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1989 Dopff & Irion "Cuvee Rene Dopff"
Tokay Pinot Gris -- Alsatian Pinot Gris is not my
favorite category, but this one was nice. The fruit is still
fresh, the acids lend some cut and the alcohol is in check. Nice
wine.
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1995 Dom. L'Aigueliere Cote Rousse --
This wine rang the bell of many in attendance, but Kim's
description seemed to capture the essence for most --
"balanced... nothing overpowering... eminently drinkable." There
was a segment who thought this was still a long way from
maturity (10-15 years?), but I'd not count myself as one of
them. Still, I hope we're all gathered together to try one then.
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1999 Dom. L'Aiguleliere Cote Rousse --
This showed many of the same characteristics of the '95, but
much less evolved. There is plenty of fruit, but there seems to
be too much tannin to wade through right now. I'm guessing
Chris Gross or
Bob Graeter has a few extras of these for future consumption --
the folks from Cincinnati seem to have purchased much of the state's available stock.
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2000 Lucien le Moine Romanee-St-Vivant
Grand Cru -- I thought it odd that its aromas were
dominated by chocolate. Once sipped it was like tasting a lumber
yard smoothie -- bleech! The usually affable
Dave Nelson felt
moved to violence when considering this Grand Cru -- "If I ever
find this guy, I'd like to beat him with a wooden stave for
making a wine like this." Nobody tried to talk him down.
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1996 Montille Volnay 1er Cru Les
Taillepieds -- The tannins were hard and treacherous
when sipped alone, but the wine really brightened when it met
the cassoulet. I think time is on its side, but it will be a
long time.
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1995 Joseph Drouhin Griotte-Chambertin Grand Cru -- This would begin the run of three
extremely good Burgundies, but this Drouhin was the least
"ready" to drink tonight. For 3+ hours it seemed very reluctant,
but then it began to reveal an enticing array of forest floor
scents, cool fruit and exotic spice. It was worth the wait, but
5 or 10 more years in cellar will probably make for better
results.
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1992 Daniel Rion Vosne-Romanee --
To the contrary, this wine was a pleasure as soon as the cork
was pulled. Floral scents, brown spices and earthy tones led the
way to smooth, measured red fruit. It is elegant and somewhat
complex (lots of minerals). What's not to like?
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2003 Clos Roche Blanche Cot Malbec -- This is one of the hand full of 2003 wines from just about anywhere (though I keep trying) that I genuinely enjoy. Mark Horvatich was impressed, but wondered if it took a really warm vintage to make Malbec viable in the Loire. I have liked other vintages too, but I'm odd that way. When compared to some of the other, more brooding back issues, this one can almost be called "fun." It is still wide shouldered and tannic, but in addition to riper fruit, it also has a sense of lightness amongst its earthy treats. Good stuff! Find this wine
1995 Jadot Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
--
As much as I liked the Rion, this Jadot was probably my favorite
red of the night. This wine is built on a larger frame of fruit
and structure, but every bit as balanced and graceful. Its
complexities are just starting to emerge. "Oh look, there is
still some left in the bottle..."
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2002 Allemand Cornas -- This
prompted a good bit of discussion..."is it worth $35?" It is a
good wine but it lacks depth and length. I do not think it will
show great development, but I'd not rule out the possibility of
an Allemand surprising us. It is nice they slashed the price in
half in this difficult vintage, but other than a curiosity, I'd
say there are too many worthy candidates for that money or less.
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2004 M&S Ogier L'Ame Soeur --
This syrah based wine seemed just a little too "slick" at the
moment...
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1996 M Ogier Cote Rotie --
Florida Jim summed it up nicely --
"pretty nose, attenuated palate." It left me wanting more.
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1999 Sesti Brunello di Montalcino -- I was pleasantly surprised at just how accessible this was -- nicely balanced, honest, and appealing. Find this wine
2000 J&P De Villaine Bourgogne La Digoine
--
Jeff Gillikin
and
John
seemed to really enjoy this wine, but its ripeness struck me
more as Pinot and less as Burgundy. Not that such a thing is so
bad in this "lower end" context.
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2002 Edmunds St. John "The Shadow" --
It did not really impress on this night, but it still comes
across as a nice Rhone influenced bottle for $12.
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2001 Porter Creek RRV PN "Hillside
Vineyard" -- This vanished quickly. Perhaps the group
was astonished that there was a Russian River Pinot on the table
that brandished a 12.8% alc? Curmudgeon Nelson still said it was
"over ripe"... many others liked it more.
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1996 Produttori del Barbaresco Montefico
-- "Smells good, but it seems clipped on the palate"
seemed to be the buzz floating around the rooms. I liked it a bit
more than the others, especially with the cassoulet, etc.
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1999 Chateau Pegau Chateauneuf du Pape --
Mary Meehan and
Jeff Faunce both deemed it their favorite of the
night...one of whom
(can you guess which one?)
thought it was stellar with the Graeter's Nonpareils chocolate coins. Indeed it did
have some chocolate character, and good richness, but at the
time I was sipping it, I found it somewhat disjointed. Time can
occasionally heal such wounds.
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~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Saturday arrived and our collective dispersed to
different activities, which largely centered on dodging rain
drops. We stayed with indoor activities -- second graders
playing soccer (yes -- Tim Thomas and
Kim Adams were
spotted behind the glass), the Cleveland Art Museum's fabulous "Barcelona" exhibit,
the Pro Football Hall of Fame in Canton,
Ohio, and the long,
fruitless search for the missing TV remote control. We did some
grocery shopping and prep for dinner... it was not long before
the house full again.
It was a morel mushroom risotto and a mixed grill
of meats (strip steak, chicken sausages, and pork
tenderloin) that were our meal's centerpieces, but there were
also delicious pasta salads, multi color beets over arugula,
and green beans dosed with truffle butter. I'd be remiss if I
did not mention the superb assortment of cheeses we sampled on
both nights -- some of which Roland Riesen hand carried from Switzerland, others
"imported" from New York, and more obtained locally from our
North End Market
in Hudson. There were also grilled shrimp, and a quickly
devoured plate of sushi. The dashing Bob Graeter brought forth
bundles of ice cream stuffed profiteroles, and the choir sang --
"Ahhh - menn!" I continue to be impressed by the obvious joy
Bob exudes in dishing up dessert.
Saturday Wines --
1992 CH Berres Urzinger
Wurzgarten Riesling Spatlese -- Apple and lemon fruit
is only slightly tempered by the years. It seems round in its
flavors, but still offering some zippy acids and a long stone
crusted finish.
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1998 Prager Riesling Smargad
Weissenkirchner Achleiten -- There was plenty of petrol
notes when I sampled this, but beyond that it was full of tart apple,
stone and nice acidic cut. The finish is long and tangy... a
pleasure to hold in my mouth. Citing a nice freshness, Roland was among a few folks who listed this among their faves.
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2000 Donnhoff Oberhauser Brucke Riesling
Spatlese -- The sweetness is a change
of pace tonight, but it dances delicately across the palate.
Tom Warren called it "one of those wines that keeps me coming
back for more." It is a delight.
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2004 F. Chidaine Montlouis sur Loire "Les
Tuffeaux" -- Scents of orange blossom and lemon --
shake with finely crushed stone and you get the flavor profile.
It is perhaps just a bit reluctant, but pretty and precise all
the while.
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2002 Luneau-Papin Muscadet Clos des
Allees VV -- Mark H found the acids a bit shrill, but
Eric Baker told me he had never had a Muscadet of such
concentration..."almost fat compared to others I had tried." Eric takes another step away from the bright lights... it is cool
in the dark lands. Not surprisingly, I found it lovely. Its acids
have lost some of their assertiveness, but it is still bright
and nicely nuanced.
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1999 Dom. Belle Louis Belle Crozes-Hermitage -- I've had this wine many times, and
it is always better after hours of air. Nice wine once it gets
there.
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2005 Raymond Quénard Vin de Savoie
Chignin VV -- It was fresh and juicy
up front but reigned in by taut acids... lots of minerals in
support. I'd be interested to see how this young Mondeuse
develops.
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2000 Lafarge Volnay Clos du Chateau des
Ducs -- An odd bottle -- flawed in some manner, but its
nature was not immediately obvious. I moved on...
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1996 Jamet Cote Rotie -- It has
that soaring floral and bacon perfume that makes me weak in the
knees. Some thought the acids were a bit high, but I thought
they leant the earthy, meaty palate a bit of good cheer. This
was one of my "dinner wines" -- a good choice.
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1994 Thomas Pinot Noir -- Like
the trio of Burgundies on Friday night, I found the following
three Oregon Pinots to be a fascinating and very enjoyable
mini-theme. This seemed very youthful and even primary. Like
most Thomas Pinots I have tried, this does not bowl you over
with fruit, but what is in play is more than ample... the
structure making for good balance. There are subtle notes of
earth, herb and pine, but it still (surprisingly) seems years
away from maturity.
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1990 Ponzi "20th anniversary" Pinot Noir
-- On the other hand, the Ponzi is spectacular right
now, and perhaps the most complete domestic Pinot I can
recall. Nice depth of fruit, earth, and herbal essence. Even in
a short interval, it reveals many layers... as interesting as it
is delicious.
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1994 Bethel Heights Southeast Block
Reserve Pinot Noir -- Mark said this was viewed as a
"monster" back in the day, but its 13.8% alc would hardly scare
anyone these days. This was the only one of the three to show
discernible oak treatment to me. It is not nearly as interesting
or polished as the other two, but hardly poor.
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1996 Chave Hermitage -- Yeah,
yeah, this bottling can still use a number of years in the
cellar, but it was still a pleasure to sniff and sip. I put my
pour aside for an hour -- patience is a virtue. It has that
lovely synthesis of flowers, dark earth and grilled meat on the
nose...more of the same in the mouth, but with a simultaneous
rustic crunch and elegant lilt. The secondary characteristics
have not yet emerged, but still very enjoyable.
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2004 Vissoux (Chermette) Cuvee
Traditionelle Beaujolais VV -- This bottle was pulled
from Blackwood's off site storage (my basement), and just like
the last three bottles I've opened, this was spectacular
Beaujolais. Once again offering evidence that I do not hate
fruit flavors in my wine, this one was a rolling red ball of
pure strawberry flavor. Tinged with herbal/stone accents and a
sunny disposition, this bottle was quickly consumed... no truth
to the rumor that John and I drank it all ourselves.
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2004 Brewer-Clifton "Rio Vista" Pinot
Noir -- I was told this garnered all sorts of critical
praise, and it is obviously in reference to its immense level of jammy, focused strawberry fruit in both the nose and palate. I
would have to say it does a fair job of disguising its 16%+
alcohol in the early going, but within a few hours, the fruit
rolled back and we were left with just the heat. The fruit is
impressive, but it seems to be a one man show... not much else
going on.
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2004 Tenuta delle Terre Nere Rosso
Calderara Sottana -- I know Jim has found this wine
impressive, but when I tried it, the parts were not
integrated... disjointed. Perhaps my timing was poor?
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1997 Antinori Pian delle Vigne Brunello
di Montalcino -- There was nothing really wrong with
this wine -- it was just uninteresting. This seemed to be the
case early as well as late.
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1996 Ornellaia -- Again -- not
especially bad or good, it just did not hold my interest.
Perhaps the name on the label just raises expectations too high?
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2000 Edmunds St. John "Los Robles
Viejos" Rozet Vineyard -- This bottling is built
on Mourvedre, Syrah, Grenache and other Chateauneuf du Pape
similar grapes resulted in a full flavored, juicy, yet balanced
wine. It is nice with the food.
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1993 Ridge Santa Cruz Mountains Cabernet
-- These SCM Cabs from Ridge are easy to like with some
age on them. Imagine that -- interesting character fostered by
good balance. Very nice wine... and from California!
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1995 Clos du Marquis St. Julien --
It did no special tricks, but it was noteworthy for its fine
balance, and pleasant textures. A lovely wine now, and years
from now.
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1998 Brundlmayer Gruner Veltliner
Beerenauslese -- Eric hounded me -- "did you try it
yet?" When I finally did, I was very happy that he pushed me.
Unlike the TBA we had from Brundlmayer
a number of weeks
back, this one has the acids to match
the pretty, honeyed, but intense yellow fruit. Dave noted
that the botrytis may have obscured the "Gruner Veltliner
character" of the wine -- on this I'd agree, but it is still a
sweet delight.
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On Sunday morning the sun came out and the remaining leaves seemed brilliant once again. I was happy our friends would have good weather and gorgeous colors to accompany them home. Tim was the last to go. He sat with us in the living room wearing the top of a Darth Vadar helmet while we discussed human evolution and the potential existence and/or need of a higher being. Nothing could seem more natural. LM
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