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Our friends came to visit this past weekend. They came bearing intriguing bottles of wine, glorious food stuffs, and more than ample warmth for the unseasonably cold and wet days. There was plenty of cooking, tidying, shopping, napping, debating, sipping... reading, wrestling, and gaming with my high energy kids. These folks pitch in and participate -- I always tell my wife Mary it's more like having family visit than any guests.  
 
cassoulet ready for the ovenOn Friday we ate the fruit of Kim's great labor -- the cassoulet (at left, ready for the oven)! Layers of white beans, sausages and duck confit all served bubbling hot in a grand ceramic vessel. There was a delightful red quinoa "ancient grains from a cardboard box" -- (apparently once a favorite of the Inca people) studded with the requisite roasted beets, tossed green salad, and then chocolate lava cakes and matching ice cream magically leapt from one of the Graeter coolers. The Cardinals won the Series, but only a few people seemed to care. Our man in Detroit (geo t. could not make the trip) was sad the Tigers lost and cold because his furnace malfunctioned... we were all glad when his heat was restored! Some wondered and then worried if John Blackwood and Trinka Dykes would ever arrive...eventually they were greeted with hoots, hollers and sighs of relief.
I cannot chronicle all of the many wines that were opened, but I do offer my hindsight observations (and a few comments from others) on a significant portion of them.

Friday Wines --
 

2004 Labranche Laffont Pacheranc du Vic-Bilh Sec Blanc -- We scratched our heads as to what  this wine actually was, or where it might be from. The atlas confirmed it was from the Madiran area of France and we learned it was composed from Petit Manseng and Gros Manseng grapes. It featured tangy lemon and lots of stone -- all backed by good amounts of herb and chamomile tea. Odd stuff which I liked better when resampling it Saturday -- more harmonious, less sour in the close. Find this wine
 
2005 Getariako Txakolina Ameztoi -- This was the edgy stuff, and I loved it. It was lean, dry and precise with all its sharp edged stones, white grapefruit and mouthwatering acids. It is not for the faint of heart. Find this wine
 
NV Toffoli Prosecco -- Florida Jim always enjoyed my "riding a shopping cart through the parking lot" description of this wine... It remains a fun and worthwhile distraction. Find this wine
 
1990 Salomon Kogl Reserve Riesling1990 Salomon Kogl Reserve Riesling -- Some of these can show a good measure of petrol, but this was restrained in that aspect. It had lovely floral, honey and stone laced scents. Its flavors followed suit, adding some apricot and candied lemon -- excellent concentration.  Its acids splash across the palate like waves on rocks -- it has a firm presence -- dry and long. I can see this developing favorably with more years in the cellar, but it is a sensual and intellectual delight for present drinking. This one was easy to recall. Find this wine
 
1989 Dopff & Irion "Cuvee Rene Dopff" Tokay Pinot Gris -- Alsatian Pinot Gris is not my favorite category, but this one was nice. The fruit is still fresh, the acids lend some cut and the alcohol is in check. Nice wine. Find this wine
 
Dom. L'Aigueliere Cote Rousse1995 Dom. L'Aigueliere Cote Rousse -- This wine rang the bell of many in attendance, but Kim's description seemed to capture the essence for most -- "balanced... nothing overpowering... eminently drinkable." There was a segment who thought this was still a long way from maturity (10-15 years?), but I'd not count myself as one of them. Still, I hope we're all gathered together to try one then. Find this wine
 
1999 Dom. L'Aiguleliere Cote Rousse -- This showed many of the same characteristics of the '95, but much less evolved. There is plenty of fruit, but there seems to be too much tannin to wade through right now. I'm guessing Chris Gross or Bob Graeter has a few extras of these for future consumption -- the folks from Cincinnati seem to have purchased much of the state's available stock. Find this wine
 
2000 Lucien le Moine Romanee-St-Vivant Grand Cru -- I thought it odd that its aromas were dominated by chocolate. Once sipped it was like tasting a lumber yard smoothie -- bleech! The usually affable Dave Nelson felt moved to violence when considering this Grand Cru -- "If I ever find this guy, I'd like to beat him with a wooden stave for making a wine like this."  Nobody tried to talk him down. Find this wine
 
1996 Montille Volnay 1er Cru Les Taillepieds -- The tannins were hard and treacherous when sipped alone, but the wine really brightened when it met the cassoulet. I think time is on its side, but it will be a long time. Find this wine
 
1995 Joseph Drouhin Griotte-Chambertin Grand Cru -- This would begin the run of three extremely good Burgundies, but this Drouhin was the least "ready" to drink tonight. For 3+ hours it seemed very reluctant, but then it began to reveal an enticing array of forest floor scents, cool fruit and exotic spice.  It was worth the wait, but 5 or 10 more years in cellar will probably make for better results. Find this wine
 
1992 Daniel Rion Vosne-Romanee1992 Daniel Rion Vosne-Romanee -- To the contrary, this wine was a pleasure as soon as the cork was pulled. Floral scents, brown spices and earthy tones led the way to smooth, measured red fruit. It is elegant and somewhat complex (lots of minerals). What's not to like? Find this wine

2003 Clos Roche Blanche Cot Malbec -- This is one of the hand full of 2003 wines from just about anywhere (though I keep trying) that I genuinely enjoy. Mark Horvatich was impressed, but wondered if it took a really warm vintage to make Malbec viable in the Loire. I have liked other vintages too, but I'm odd that way.  When compared to some of the other, more brooding back issues, this one can almost be called "fun." It is still wide shouldered and tannic, but in addition to riper fruit, it also has a sense of lightness amongst its earthy treats. Good stuff! Find this wine

 
1995 Jadot Clos Vougeot Grand Cru1995 Jadot Clos Vougeot Grand Cru -- As much as I liked the Rion, this Jadot was probably my favorite red of the night. This wine is built on a larger frame of fruit and structure, but every bit as balanced and graceful. Its complexities are just starting to emerge. "Oh look, there is still some left in the bottle..." Find this wine
 
2002 Allemand Cornas -- This prompted a good bit of discussion..."is it worth $35?"  It is a good wine but it lacks depth and length. I do not think it will show great development, but I'd not rule out the possibility of an Allemand surprising us. It is nice they slashed the price in half in this difficult vintage, but other than a curiosity, I'd say there are too many worthy candidates for that money or less. Find this wine
 
2004 M&S Ogier  L'Ame Soeur -- This syrah based wine seemed just a little too "slick" at the moment... Find this wine
 
1996 Michael Ogier Cote Rotie1996 M Ogier Cote Rotie -- Florida Jim summed it up nicely --  "pretty nose, attenuated palate." It left me wanting more. Find this wine

1999 Sesti Brunello di Montalcino -- I was pleasantly surprised at just how accessible this was -- nicely balanced, honest, and appealing. Find this wine
 
2000 J&P De Villaine Bourgogne La Digoine -- Jeff Gillikin and John seemed to really enjoy this wine, but its ripeness struck me more as Pinot and less as Burgundy. Not that such a thing is so bad in this "lower end" context. Find this wine
 
2002 Edmunds St. John "The Shadow"2002 Edmunds St. John "The Shadow" -- It did not really impress on this night, but it still comes across as a nice Rhone influenced bottle for $12. Find this wine
 
2001 Porter Creek RRV PN "Hillside Vineyard" -- This vanished quickly. Perhaps the group was astonished that there was a Russian River Pinot on the table that brandished a 12.8% alc? Curmudgeon Nelson still said it was "over ripe"... many others liked it more. Find this wine
 
1996 Produttori del Barbaresco Montefico1996 Produttori del Barbaresco Montefico -- "Smells good, but it seems clipped on the palate" seemed to be the buzz floating around the rooms. I liked it a bit more than the others, especially with the cassoulet, etc. Find this wine
 
1999 Chateau Pegau Chateauneuf du Pape -- Mary Meehan and Jeff Faunce both deemed it their favorite of the night...one of whom (can you guess which one?) thought it was stellar with the Graeter's  Nonpareils chocolate coins. Indeed it did have some chocolate character, and good richness, but at the time I was sipping it, I found it somewhat disjointed. Time can occasionally heal such wounds. Find this wine
 
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
 
Saturday arrived and our collective dispersed to different activities, which largely centered on dodging rain drops. We stayed with indoor activities -- second graders playing soccer (yes -- Tim Thomas and Kim Adams were spotted behind the glass), the Cleveland Art Museum's fabulous "Barcelona" exhibit, the Pro Football Hall of Fame in Canton, Ohio, and the long, fruitless search for the missing TV remote control. We did some grocery shopping and prep for dinner... it was not long before the house full again.
 
It was a morel mushroom risotto and a mixed grill of meats (strip steak, chicken sausages, and pork tenderloin) that were our meal's centerpieces, but there were also delicious pasta salads, multi color beets over arugula, and green beans dosed with truffle butter. I'd be remiss if I did not mention the superb assortment of cheeses we sampled on both nights  -- some of which Roland Riesen hand carried from Switzerland, others "imported" from New York, and more obtained locally from our North End Market in Hudson. There were also grilled shrimp, and a quickly devoured plate of sushi. The dashing Bob Graeter brought forth bundles of ice cream stuffed profiteroles, and the choir sang -- "Ahhh - menn!" I continue to be impressed by the obvious joy Bob exudes in dishing up dessert.
 
Saturday Wines --
 
1992 CH Berres Urzinger Wurzgarten Riesling Spatlese -- Apple and lemon fruit is only slightly tempered by the years. It seems round in its flavors, but still offering some zippy acids and a long stone crusted finish. Find this wine
 
1998 Prager Riesling Smargad Weissenkirchner Achleiten -- There was plenty of petrol notes when I sampled this, but beyond that it was full of tart apple, stone and nice acidic cut. The finish is long and tangy... a pleasure to hold in my mouth. Citing a nice freshness, Roland was among a few folks who listed this among their faves. Find this wine
 
2000 Donnhoff Oberhauser Brucke Riesling Spatlese -- The sweetness is a change of pace tonight, but it dances delicately across the palate.  Tom Warren called it "one of those wines that keeps me coming back for more." It is a delight. Find this wine
 
2004 F. Chidaine Montlouis sur Loire "Les Tuffeaux" -- Scents of orange blossom and lemon -- shake with finely crushed stone and you get the flavor profile. It is perhaps just a bit reluctant, but pretty and precise all the while. Find this wine
 
2002 Luneau-Papin Muscadet  Clos des Allees VV -- Mark H found the acids a bit shrill, but Eric Baker told me he had never had a Muscadet of such concentration..."almost fat compared to others I had tried." Eric takes another step away from the bright lights... it is cool in the dark lands. Not surprisingly, I found it lovely. Its acids have lost some of their assertiveness, but it is still bright and nicely nuanced. Find this wine
 
1999 Dom. Belle Louis Belle Crozes-Hermitage -- I've had this wine many times, and it is always better after hours of air. Nice wine once it gets there. Find this wine
 
2005 Raymond Quénard Vin de Savoie Chignin VV2005 Raymond Quénard Vin de Savoie Chignin VV -- It was fresh and juicy up front but reigned in by taut acids... lots of minerals in support. I'd be interested to see how this young Mondeuse develops. Find this wine
 
2000 Lafarge Volnay Clos du Chateau des Ducs -- An odd bottle -- flawed in some manner, but its nature was not immediately obvious. I moved on... Find this wine
 
1996 Jamet Cote Rotie -- It has that soaring floral and bacon perfume that makes me weak in the knees. Some thought the acids were a bit high, but I thought they leant the earthy, meaty palate a bit of good cheer. This was one of my "dinner wines" -- a good choice. Find this wine
 
1994 Thomas Pinot Noir -- Like the trio of Burgundies on Friday night, I found the following three Oregon Pinots to be a fascinating and very enjoyable mini-theme. This seemed very youthful and even primary. Like most Thomas Pinots I have tried, this does not bowl you over with fruit, but what is in play is more than ample... the structure making for good balance. There are subtle notes of earth, herb and pine, but it still (surprisingly) seems years away from maturity. Find this wine
 
1990 Ponzi "20th anniversary" Pinot Noir -- On the other hand, the Ponzi is spectacular right now, and perhaps the most complete domestic Pinot I can recall. Nice depth of fruit, earth, and herbal essence. Even in a short interval, it reveals many layers... as interesting as it is delicious. Find this wine
 
1994 Bethel Heights Southeast Block Reserve Pinot Noir --  Mark said this was viewed as a "monster" back in the day, but its 13.8% alc would hardly scare anyone these days. This was the only one of the three to show discernible oak treatment to me. It is not nearly as interesting or polished as the other two, but hardly poor. Find this wine
 
1996 Chave Hermitage -- Yeah, yeah, this bottling can still use a number of years in the cellar, but it was still a pleasure to sniff and sip. I put my pour aside for an hour -- patience is a virtue.  It has that lovely synthesis of flowers, dark earth and grilled meat on the nose...more of the same in the mouth, but with a simultaneous rustic crunch and elegant lilt. The secondary characteristics have not yet emerged, but still very enjoyable. Find this wine
 
2004 Vissoux (Chermette) Cuvee Traditionelle Beaujolais VV -- This bottle was pulled from Blackwood's off site storage (my basement), and just like the last three bottles I've opened, this was spectacular Beaujolais. Once again offering evidence that I do not hate fruit flavors in my wine, this one was a rolling red ball of pure strawberry flavor. Tinged with herbal/stone accents and a sunny disposition, this bottle was quickly consumed... no truth to the rumor that John and I drank it all ourselves. Find this wine
 
2004 Brewer-Clifton "Rio Vista" Pinot Noir -- I was told this garnered all sorts of critical praise, and it is obviously in reference to its immense level of jammy, focused strawberry fruit in both the nose and palate. I would have to say it does a fair job of disguising its 16%+ alcohol in the early going, but within a few hours, the fruit rolled back and we were left with just the heat. The fruit is impressive, but it seems to be a one man show... not much else going on. Find this wine
 
2004 Tenuta delle Terre Nere Rosso Calderara Sottana -- I know Jim has found this wine impressive, but when I tried it, the parts were not integrated... disjointed. Perhaps my timing was poor? Find this wine
 
1997 Antinori Pian delle Vigne Brunello di Montalcino -- There was nothing really wrong with this wine -- it was just uninteresting. This seemed to be the case early as well as late. Find this wine
 
1996 Ornellaia -- Again -- not especially bad or good, it just did not hold my interest. Perhaps the name on the label just raises expectations too high? Find this wine
 
2000 Edmunds St. John  "Los Robles Viejos" Rozet Vineyard -- This bottling is built on Mourvedre, Syrah, Grenache and other Chateauneuf du Pape similar grapes resulted in a full flavored, juicy, yet balanced wine. It is nice with the food. Find this wine
 
1993 Ridge Santa Cruz Mountains Cabernet -- These SCM Cabs from Ridge are easy to like with some age on them. Imagine that -- interesting character fostered by good balance. Very nice wine... and from California! Find this wine
 
1995 Clos du Marquis St. Julien -- It did no special tricks, but it was noteworthy for its fine balance, and pleasant textures. A lovely wine now, and years from now. Find this wine
 
1998 Brundlmayer Gruner Veltliner Beerenauslese1998 Brundlmayer Gruner Veltliner Beerenauslese -- Eric hounded me  -- "did you try it yet?" When I finally did, I was very happy that he pushed me. Unlike the TBA we had from Brundlmayer a number of weeks back, this one has the acids to match the pretty, honeyed, but intense yellow fruit. Dave noted that the botrytis may have obscured the "Gruner Veltliner character" of the wine -- on this I'd agree, but it is still a sweet delight.  Find this wine
 
 

Tim Thomas as Darth VaderOn Sunday morning the sun came out and the remaining leaves seemed brilliant once again. I was happy our friends would have good weather and gorgeous colors to accompany them home. Tim was the last to go. He sat with us in the living room wearing the top of a Darth Vadar helmet while we discussed human evolution and the potential existence and/or need of a higher being. Nothing could seem more natural. 

LM

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