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attend a blind tasting at least
once a month, and frequently find myself mourning the waste of so many
good paper bags for a fast paced, oft contextually lacking exercise --
but it can be fun, interesting, and create good fodder for conversation,
depending on one's company and the selection of wines in play...in the
end, that is what matters. I offer these as "action shots" of the
constantly moving target that is wine.
These two tastings took place Alberini's in Niles, Ohio. The group that
meets here monthly has been together in some form or fashion for more
than a decade. They are nice enough to invite me to join them. One nice
aspect of their tastings is that they allow at least 20 minutes for most
flights, so there is a decent interval in which to experience the wine
in the glass.
The theme was originally intended to be "Central Coast Pinot Noir", but
something was lost in the translation, as (unbeknownst to me until the
bags were pulled) it morphed into a more general "Cal Pinot" event.
A round of random whites...
#1 -- grapefruit and gooseberry
scents, followed by fast escalating cat pee. It has an initial burst of
tangy orange flavor, but then largely follows the nose...more zest and
spice at the close. It seems a bit soft through the center, but acids
pick up toward the finish. Seems like a reasonable to good New Zealand
Sauvignon Blanc. 2002 Fern Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough
#2 -- white gold in color. The
scents of "cold river water," stone, lychee, and peach forge an
attractive, viscous nose. The peach flavor dominates the palate, but is
bolstered by peppy acids and a stone filled core. It is on the pleasant
but simple side at present, but I get the sense that it has more to
offer. 2002 Markowitsch Gruner Veltliner Alte Reben
#3 -- there is a good bit of swampy
funk rising from the glass, and I understand why this can be really off
putting to some, but I really like the Gruner funk. Loaded with stone
and herbal essence, it really needs time to open up. It has a pleasant,
measured sweetness under the foliage -- mostly peach and under ripe
pineapple...lots of wet stone, with a mineral and truffle resolve. It is
certainly tangy, with active acids.
1999 Brundlmayer Gruner Veltliner Reid Loiser
Berg
A random red...
#1 -- deep red raspberry, blood,
light herbs and iron forge an intriguing bouquet. In the mouth it comes
across as more dry and austere than the nose might indicate. Perhaps
closed down (seems a little older), as it is shy on fruit, but has good
smooth texture, and broad tannins. There is an interesting rhubarb note
in the middle...it wraps up with plenty of herbs and twigs. An odd wine
to be sure, but interesting...cold climate...perhaps an Austrian
Zwiegelt? Homemade 1995 Merlot (fruit grown in Wooster,
Ohio) by our Enologist pal Roland Riesen
Pinots - Flight 1
#1 -- raspberry/cherry fruit, exotic
woods, light clove and earth on the nose. In the mouth it offers soft,
ripe red fruit with a tangy, slightly stemmy back beat. This is the
least distinctive wine in the flight, but with time, the fruit turns
more ripe and dense...just enough acid to hold it together...a bit of
tannic bite at the close. A fair dollop of fruit, but not too much else
going on. 2001 Stephen Ross Bien Nacido Pinot Noir
($40/13.8% alc.)
#2 -- high toned floral notes mingle
with the essence of root beer and substantial spice...turning
interestingly gamy with time. There is juicy red fruit that seemed even
handed in its approach...some in the group calling it "austere." Through
the middle, it shows good bits of Indian spice, herbs, and tar...quite
interesting. It is smooth and round, with excellent proportion in the
fruit and structure...no obvious alcohol to factor. It has a pleasantly
long linger -- flint, spice, and dried red fruit. This seemed like an
excellent, balanced Pinot. 2000 Arcadian Gary's Vineyard Pinot Noir
($22/13.5% alc.)
#3 -- a bit sulfurous at first, but
that passes quickly. Ripe, dark cherry scents, along with plenty of
Indian spice...pleasantly earthy. It is velvety smooth in texture, and
features deep, rich cherry and plum fruit. Relatively speaking it is big
bodied, but not at all clumsy...just a hint of alcohol intruding at the
finish...some chocolate, too. There are interesting spice notes
throughout...clove, forest floor, and even a bit of meat. It really
comes across as more of a Russian River Pinot, than Central Coast. It is
very well done for a style that does not really inspire me...though I
could easily enjoy a glass or two of it. 2001 Rochioli Estate RRV Pinot Noir
($35-40/14.5% alc.)
The group split on the Rochioli and the Arcadian...all placing the Ross
third in the flight. I'm not a big fan of most Gary's Vineyard bottlings,
but the Arcadian was extremely well done. I'd be hard pressed to
recommend it at its original Ohio price of nearly $80, but once
discounted into the twenties, it seems very reasonable. On the Rochioli,
I commented that it "pushed the envelope" for me in its size and
ripeness, but that said, it was still quite enjoyable.
Flight 2
#4 -- the nose features lots of
tomato and basil...assorted dried herbs and leafy tobacco. It has a
dark, earthy persona...lots of fresh roasted coffee and bitter dried
herbs at the center. The tannins have a craggy feel, and an extremely
drying nature...the cranberry finish giving it slight relief. I'd guess
this is past its prime or (more likely) damaged, though it is hard for
me to imagine this wine in its best state.
1995 Jadot Gevrey-Chambertin Clos St. Jacques
(13% alc.)
#5 -- it has a peppery and dusty
nose...roasted coffee beans. Rich, dark fruits and more coffee are
central in the palate -- this is a smooth, round wine of substantial
body. Light doses of chocolate and substantial spice mark the finish. It
is not especially poor (just boring really), but it does little to
distinguish itself as a Pinot or wine in general.
1999 Sanford Santa Barbara County Pinot Noir
($30/14.2% alc.)
#6 -- lots of butter and toffee in
the nose...candied cherry and plum fruit scents mingle with peppermint.
It seems a bit dilute on the entry, but gains weight through the middle.
It shows more cream than fruit...an herbal/eucalyptus wrap up. Not so
nice...
2000 Pessagno Central Avenue Vineyard Pinot Noir ($20/14.2% alc.)
This was an ugly little flight, with most tasters leaning toward the
Sanford.
Flight 3
#7 -- There was a slight spritz
here, but it moved off in due course. It smells ripe and warm with red
fruits and spice. Describing the flavor profile as "melted cherry
lollipops" seemed quite apt, though it had a snappy bit of acid to
elevate it, and give it a bright demeanor. Coffee and spice dominate the
finish. This was the first Pinot I tried tonight that put me in mind of
the prevailing style on the Central Coast. Though it was not really
overdone in any way, its weight and textures had me thinking "Syrah"
rather than "Pinot." 1999 Talley Rosemary's Vineyard Pinot Noir
($35/14% alc.)
#8
-- The initial scents of high
toned red fruit and flowers, rapidly moved toward candied cherry,
tutti-frutti, and charcoal. The palate comes across as initially thinner
than I might have guessed from the nose. It had a slight alcoholic
warmth and featured cough syrup and candied cherries as its main
players. Structure is solid enough, but the wine really lacks a sense of
depth at this stage...it does seem rather young.
2002 Radio-Coteau Sonoma Coast Hellenthal
Vineyard Pinot Noir
($50-ish/14.4% alc.)
I thought the Talley was pretty decent, and seemed quite youthful. The
Radio-Coteau drew a few nods, but when all was said and done, the
Arcadian and the Rochioli were the clear favorites of the group -- mine
too.
_________
The second meeting featured California Syrah ("Not from Napa or Sonoma")
and Alsatian styled whites, but as seems typical in these parts, there
are a few odd bottles mixed in.
Whites
Flight 1 --
#1 -- some floral and chalk scents,
but mostly a buttery, caramel bouquet. The featured flavors were light
"peachy sweet" fruit and "peanut butter on toast"... more and more
coconut on the finish. It is a low acid wine, with no alcohol issues.
Since we were talking about Alsatian styled wines at the outset, I guess
a "domestic, oak chipped Pinot Gris." I'm told this is intended to
sell in the $10-2 range, so if one seeks this style, they could do much
worse. It seems that beyond the juice in the bottle, the art work
featuring large posteriors is the biggest draw. 2004 Big Ass Chardonnay - Sonoma County
#2 -- warm scents, featuring over
ripe apricot and musk...floral tones and a light kiss of volatile
acidity (VA). This was served at room temperature, so this added to the
sense of overbearing, semi-searing alcohol on the palate. It has a
broad, oily texture, adding to its very full mouthfeel...lacking any
real sense of acid. Flavors of ripe peach and lychee are potent on the
attack...lots of diesel/charcoal notes through the center. Probably a
Geurtz or a strange Muscat, but in any case, largely unappealing.
2003 Standing Stone Gewurtztraminer Finger
Lakes (New York)
#3 -- a high toned bouquet of wild
flowers and tangerine. Peppy/zingy tangerine dominates up front, but
gives way to more grapefruit, spice and zest through the middle...flint
and minerals at the core. It softens slightly toward the close, with
alcohol being a little too apparent, but overall it is very nice -- a
group favorite.
2002 Rockburn Pinot Gris (New
Zealand)
#4 -- the nose initially shows some
burnt toast, but mostly floral and honeysuckle notes. In the mouth it
offers very rich, sugary sweet peach flavors (only lightly cloying), but
then nicely elevated by good acids that help bring a zingy lime/spice
character to the midpalate. It has plenty of body and heft...a long,
"Mike's Hard Lemonade" finish.
1990 Pierre Spaar Grand Cru Gewurtztraminer
#5 -- a more focused, penetrating
nose...tangerine peel, grapefruit, and plenty of mineral. The palate
speaks to under ripe peach, grapefruit peel and guava...bitter at the
center. It adds some honeyed sweetness at the close, though the alcohol
comes across as harsh. 1997 Louis Gisselbrecht Cuvee Reserve
Gewurtztraminer
A few starter reds --
#6 -- dried herb and vanilla push
around the black fruit in the bouquet. It has assertive oak-like flavors
and woody tannins...still, there is a good bit of ripe, sweet cherry
fruit accented by plenty of peppery spice at the close.
2002 Big Ass Zinfandel Napa Valley
#7 -- it has a ripe, black fruit
sort of nose...some sort of oak treatment takes the lead in both the
scents and flavors. It offers plenty of herb mixed in with the rich, red
fruit...seems like a Cabernet, but it is hard to pin that down.
2003 Big Ass Cabernet Napa Valley
The "Big Ass Trio" were samples sent to a local distributor -- they are
not currently sold in Ohio. The wines hit a pretty decent niche for
their $12-15 price point (offering plenty of fruit/oak flavors), though
that notion seems submerged under the cartooned, large posterior
marketing ploy. With a room full of wine retailers, distributors, etc.,
it was interesting to find that half the group thought the label would
be a good seller, while another half found it off putting. I lined up
with the latter group, but as is often the case when considering sales,
I think you should give the people what they want.
Syrahs
Flight 1 --
#1 -- it has an interesting, though
largely unappealing meld of bell pepper and cocoa on the nose. Soft,
ripe plum, along with a good dollop of butter are the featured
flavors...shifting slightly toward cherry cough syrup at the close. It
has a persistent monotone about it...very flat and uninspiring.
2000 EOS Petit Sirah Reserve ($25)
#2 -- warm, dusty red fruits marry
with light herbs and cocoa for a pleasant nose. Rich red fruits fuel the
palate, accented by buttered popcorn and light bits of earth. The
flavors move toward blueberries at the close...light tannins and good
acidic snap. When I learned this sold for <$7, I thought it was a fine
bargain for those in the market for a pleasant, lightly oaky Syrah.
2001 Mommessin Vin d'Pays Baton de Reglisse
($7)
#3 -- incredibly volatile, and
showing off a piercing acidity. I knew what it was right away, as I
experienced one of these "memory etchers" a few years ago. I've had
three good (excellent, really) bottles in the interim...makes me wonder
how my odds line up for the remaining 2 bottles in the cellar, as there
are many documented problems with this particular bottling? Someone wondered
aloud if it might not make a fine salad dressing.
1999 Edmunds St. John Wylie Fennaughty
($30)
This flight brought no real appeal, other than value attached to the
Mommessin -- the group's flight winner.
Flight 2 --
#4 -- the nose offers up a bit of
barnyard, but it is a cool accent, rather than a
distraction...strawberries, rhubarb and anise, too. In the mouth it
features smooth, rich plum fruit in the attack...wet and juicy
boysenberry through the middle, with cola and spice accents. It has good
grip, and decent overall acids...perhaps a bit warm with alcohol at the
close. This is quite good. 2001 Fess Parker Rodney's Vineyard
($33/14.9% alc.)
#5 -- a minor VA note, makes way for
high toned flowers and peach/strawberry jam in the lingering vapors. It
has great fruit sweetness...ultra rich and mouth filling. It was just
too much for me -- extreme and cloying, though others raised a cheer for
it. It is liquefied strawberry/boysenberry jam -- "gobs and gobs." There
is a fair amount of tannin and significant warmth as it fades.
2003 Clos Mimi Petite Rousse
($18-9/16% alc.)
#6 -- smoke and cherries drive the
scents, but there is dust, herbs, and a good bit of "exotic wood" as
well. Deep cherry flavors meld well with "classy oak"... mushroom and
earth in the center prompts some to ponder its "Frenchness." It has a
smooth, polished texture, with tannins to match. The wine shows good
balance within its realm.
2002 Mellville Estate ($20)
This flight was greatly enjoyed by the group -- all seeming to garner a
good measure of praise. I favored the Fess Parker, and grew to dislike
the Petite Rousse. That said, the Petite Rousse is $19. If this sort of
thing hits your stylistic hot buttons, it gives you great bang for your
buck. Fans of liquid jam will not be disappointed! The Mellville seems
to be well priced in comparison to similar wines...depending on the
style you enjoy, it is a winner, too.
Flight 3 --
#7 -- one of the darker wines on the
table. It shows fragrances of ripe red raspberries, vanilla, and spice.
It seem initially "washed out" when sipped, but becomes more rich as it
fills in through the center. The tannins take firm hold in the
close...lots of cola as it finishes. 2002 Taz Santa Barbara County
($20-2/14.8% alc.)
#8 -- it has a deep, smoky sort of
nose...good bits of strawberry and cherry. It has a very ripe entry full
of black raspberries and dark cherries. It is firm through the
middle...though seeming always ripe, it never becomes cloying or seeming
overdone. There are nice notes of earth, tobacco, and chocolate
underneath. Very nice wine.
2002 Tobin James Rock & Roll ($17-8
/14.9% alc.)
Where the Taz seems to have some holes in it, the Tobin James was
enjoyed by everyone...it is a well done wine, and nicely priced.
Flight 4 --
#9 -- lightly earthy and slightly
sulfurous at first, but within a few minutes, the nose turns deep, dark
and chocolate filled. The entry is big, wet and rich with dark cherries
and plum...seeming smooth but cloying through the middle. Tannins and
alcohol assault my tongue as it departs. It seems quite disjointed at
present. 2002 Qupe Bien Nacido ($30/13.5% alc.)
#10 -- there is a cotton
candy/confectionary quality to the nose...moving toward chocolate and
coffee in time. It is another of the "big, sweet, and juicy" types --
dark wood, dark fruit and dark brown sugar flavors. More chocolate and
strong coffee engage in the middle and run through the finish. The
alcohol is not overt, but the wine borders on "too soft."
2002 Justin Paso Robles ($20/15% alc.)
Those with a sweet tooth grooved on this mini-flight, but neither really
appealed to me. The group gave the nod to the Qupe, but I found the
Justin "better put together."
The Fess Parker, the Petite Rousse, and the Tobin James were the
consensus favorites of the night. Though many of those sampled were not
made in my preferred style, I did think it was positive to see a number
of these domestic Syrahs at or around $20 (even in higher priced Ohio)
seem to offer a great deal of visceral pleasure.
LM
Larry's previous
article
An Evening with Peter Rosback of
Sineann Winery
Larry Meehan was a one
time "boy entrepreneur," now a full time Dad. In the moments when the
insanity fades, he is a fairly prolific tasting note writer, minor
league party planner/caterer, sporadic wine educator, and consultant for a few
retailers who (at their own peril) seem to value his opinions. Hailing from near Cleveland, he
frequently gathers with local enthusiasts to share thoughts and a few glasses, but also
concocts a number of tasting events that bring friends together from around the country.
Larry samples hundreds of wines a year from a myriad of regions -- "Understanding the diverse
and constantly changing landscape of wine will be a life long endeavor...I'm glad it is
so much fun!"
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