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By califusa My first stop at the grand tasting this year was, appropriately enough, with the Garretson Wine Company. George Heritier's tasting notes (and more photos) are here.
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Garretson
Wine Company: 1999 “Fat Bastard Viognier” from the Fralich Vineyard
- as per its name - a large, viscous and alcoholic Viognier -
lovely apricot and honeysuckle aromatics - full and mouth filling with
noticeable alcohol and a hint of bitterness in the finish - but, all in
all, very delicious. Garretson Wine Company: 1998 Syrah Paso Robles “The Aisling” - smoky roasted coffee and cocoa bean over dense black stone fruit aromatics - is very successful on the palate, showing sweet dark purple and black stone fruits - still has some relatively smooth tannins that will require some time to resolve, but it has wonderful intensity, and is enormously satisfying. Equus
is the Rhone varietal incarnation of Wild Horse - 1999 Rousanne
Paso Robles -
pleasant light peach and wildflower aromatics - slightly sweet in the
mouth, but pleasantly so, with sensual viscosity and a clean finish. 1998 Wild Horse
Viognier Central Coast
- light aromatics of fruit cocktail and wildflowers - pleasant enough in
the mouth, but the flavors are a bit nondescript – a not terribly
exciting wine. 1997
Wild Horse
Syrah Paso Robles -
good dense color - slightly dusty and muted dark plum aromas in the nose
- very sturdy in the mouth - slightly sweet finish - still some moderate
long chain tannins that need to resolve – but a relatively well put
together effort. 1997 Wild Horse
Syrah James Berry Vineyard
- more dense and distinctive fruit in the nose, leaning more towards
focused plum - all around a more pleasant wine - more focused fruit
flavors - a slight sweetness and a longer finish – quite nice. Yves
Gangloff 1998 Condrieu
- very light pale straw color - delicate aromatics of wildflowers with a
hint of nectarine, quite lovely - lightish fruit flavors with surprising
viscosity and weight in the mouth - very nice wine. 1996
Yves
Gangloff Cote Rotie -
absolutely fascinating and effusive nose of wonderful spicy black stone
fruits with hints of leather and an intoxicating perfume with nuances of
bacon fat and sun baked stones - this is what makes these wines so
fascinating for me - the aromatic profile is simply extraordinary. 1997
Yves
Gangloff Cote Rotie from young
vines - 1997
Yves
Gangloff Cote Rotie - not as
impressive in the nose as the 96 - more muted fruit flavors without the
spice and meaty perfume and complexities, but nevertheless, a good Cote
Rotie flavor profile. 1997
Yves
Gangloff Condrieu Late Harvest
- picked in the middle of November - no botrytis, but the grapes were
quite raisined - lovely sweet peach, apricot and nectarine, as well as
pretty honeysuckle and wildflower aromatics - the wine is hugely
successful in the mouth, showing good balance - concentrated white stone
fruits along with very well-balanced sweetness, and just the right
acidity to hold it altogether. 15 percent residual sugar, according to
the wine maker - as they allowed the grapes to concentrate, the lack of
botrytis made it easier for them to balance the sweetness and acidity.
An absolutely wonderful Late Harvest Condrieu. Novy
Family Winery –
with Adam Lee – this is a joint venture with another family member –
1999 Syrah Rose
- a pink, dry and utterly refreshing rose of Syrah - interesting
aromatics and a longer and cleansing finish. 1998
Novy
Family Winery Syrah Sonoma County Stagecoach Vineyard -
located between Petaluma and the town of Sonoma - dense color - subdued
aromatics - sweet and pretty fruit up front with significant tannins
that will need some time, but a nicely structured wine with good
intensity that should turn out quite well with a little bit of patience. 1999
Novy
Family Winery Syrah – this sample
is from the Page Nord
Vineyard, one of
three vineyards that will go into the final blend. Inky dark color
- great intensity on the palate that is matched by the astringency of
the tannins - this barrel sample wins Madame L’Pour’s Saliva Sucker
Award of the Day. And it do… Linne
Colado – their
entree into the barrel auction fetched a surprisingly high price, and
was purchased by Mark
Miller (of Coyote Café and Red Sage
fame.) 1998 Willow
Red - medium color -
very pretty entry with sweet and ripe Grenache fruit - medium weight on
the palate - it still has some tannins that need to settle down a bit,
but a well-balanced medium weight wine that will pair very nicely with a
wide variety of foods. 1998
Linne Calodo James Berry Vineyard
- a blend of Syrah, Grenache and Mourvedre - slightly darker color -
mostly Mourvedre in the aromatics - quite delicious in the mouth,
showing sweetness from ripe fruit - very clean and well structured wine
with a good broad mouth feel and a long follow. The wine needs a little
more time in bottle, but right now is very promising. 1998
Linne Calodo Cherry Red - a
Zinfandel and Syrah blend - the bright aromatics of the Zinfandel are
quite apparent with a slightly syrupy sweetness - a very pleasing wine
on the palate, showing good intensity. This will be an eminently
drinkable wine - all it needs is a little time to settle down. Jasper
Hill 1998 Shiraz Georgia’s Paddock
- their 1996 vintage of this wine was among my very favorites at
yesterday's library tasting. This wine shows an incredibly dense color -
smoky perfume that changes to garrigue and road tar with hints of
roasted coffee and cocoa beans. On the palate the wine is extremely
successful, with dense and layered flavors and a finish that just goes
on and on and on. A most impressive pair of wines from Jasper
Hill. Domaine
Francois Villard – 1998 Condrieu
- pleasing light peach and wildflowers in the nose with hints of mineral
- pleasant on the palate, albeit a touch astringent - the wine is clean
and well focused and would probably pair better with shellfish, rather
than rich or creamy dishes - a bit austere, but a very nicely made wine. 1998
Domaine
Francois Villard Gigondas - black plum
and roasted coffee with hints of licorice on the nose - very exciting on
the palate - it's loaded with very expressive fruit - it still needs to
two or three years in bottle to come around a bit, but a beautifully
structured wine with great promise. 1997
Domaine
Francois Villard Condrieu Late Harvest “Quintessence”
- beautiful golden hue - pretty honeyed white stone fruits in the nose -
delicious balance with acidity, sugar and fruit in harmony - the wine
drinks very, very easily. Although I tasted several wonderful
dessert wines, this one may be my favorite. Pierre
Gaillard – 1998 St. Joseph Clos de Cuminaille
- lovely spice and bacon fat aromatics over dense black plum - the wine
is enormously appealing in the mouth - the aromatics follow through on
the palate perfectly - beautifully structured and well-balanced with a
broad flavor palate and a clean finish. The wine needs a little
time but is quite delicious. 1999
Pierre
Gaillard Condrieu Late Harvest d’Automne
- gorgeous aromatics of sweet apricot with hints of honeysuckle - very
pleasing in the mouth with peaches and sweet nectarine. Not cloying or
syrupy to my palate - clean, although somewhat abrupt finish. I thought
I detected some smooth wood tannins in the mid-palate, so I asked the
winemaker if the wine had seen any wood. He told me it had spent time in
all new French oak – he thought the wine was so concentrated that it
would pick up just a kiss of the oak. Cold
Heaven – 1997 Viognier Late Harvest Sanford & Benedict
Vineyard - first pour
was from a corked bottle - second taste from a new bottle showed very
clean, pretty and concentrated peach and nectarine flavors - good
balance with just a hint of stem tannins, but no bitterness on the
finish - really quite lovely. Curtis
Winery 1998 Viognier Santa Barbara County -
the first pour had nuances of wet gym locker sweat sock, so we opened a
new bottle and poured another taste. Second try from a rinsed glass and
a fresh bottle yielded identical funk as the first pour – a flawed
wine in my book. 1997
Curtis
Winery California Heritage Old Vines
- a Rhone styled blend of six varietals made in an early drinking style
- aromas of super ripe fruit bordering on over ripe - very dense on the
palate with some drying tannins - the wine has good weight, but I don't
know if it will ever quite come into balance - not terribly impressive. 1997
Curtis
Winery Syrah Santa Ynez Valley Ambassador’s Vineyard
– there is some acetyl volatility in this wine - medium weight, fairly
generic Syrah flavor profile in the mouth - pales in comparison to some
of the very fine wines here today - a rather disappointing showing from
this winery. Yesterday, the Andrew Murray barrel sample was the last wine I tasted as I went out the door, and I neglected to take tasting notes. I won't make that same mistake today. 1999
Andrew Murray
Enchante – 40%
Marsanne, 40% Rousanne, 20% Viognier - I think I'm probably beginning to
suffer from palate fatigue - I've probably tasted some 50 wines or so,
and none of these are really exciting me right now. This wine has a nice
broad mouth feel and medium weight fruit flavors - bone dry with a very
crisp palate cleansing finish. This would be my oyster wine of the day. 1999
Andrew Murray
Marsanne - I tasted
this wine at Mustard’s Grill just a week or two ago and was quite
impressed with it. Smokey peach and apricot aromatics - very
pretty peach fruit across the palate with medium weight and a very clean
finish. 1999
Andrew Murray Syrah “Les Coteaux”
- shows smoky and dusty fruit, and is far too young to be enjoyable now. Alban
Vineyards 1999 Viognier Estate
- very faint suggestion of oak char in the nose that is followed and
complemented by fairly rich nectarine fruit, although the aromatics are
generally restrained. Clean and well balanced, and I think the
fruit will come up a bit with a little more time in bottle. It is
a satisfying wine. 1998
Alban
Vineyards Rousanne Estate - a
hint of funk or perhaps TCA that renders the wine undrinkable for me. 1998
Alban
Vineyards Grenache Estate
–
very small production, and the last pour from the last bottle. A little
funk in the nose, but glorious in the mouth with sweet and ripe Grenache
fruit - very focused wine with a long follow. This is absolutely
delicious stuff. I imagine that with airing the funk in the nose
may blow off, but in the mouth this is a tremendously pleasing wine. 1998
Reva, John Alban’s Estate Syrah
- again, that little hint of funk in the nose - dense Syrah fruit that
is a little drying on the front of the palate - but I don't consider
that a negative at all - the wine simply needs a little bit of time to
come around - it's quite delicious and well focused. It finishes
deep and rich on the palate. Arrowood
- today, their table is manned by Carlos,
who, for more than 10 years was the resident chef at Kenwood Vineyards,
and created some wonderful food and wine pairings for special events
there. There has been a change in ownership at Kenwood and for reasons
we do not need to discuss, Carlo has left. He’s a very nice man
as well as a talented chef, and we wish him well wherever he winds up. 1998
Arrowood Viognier Saralee’s Vineyard -
rather muted citrus and light peach aromatics with just a hint of soap -
very clean and pleasant on the palate, rich and full with a very
pleasing astringency – this will be a very nice wine paired with
the proper foods. 1995 Arrowood Syrah – ‘accidentally’ opened by Carlos - just lovely perfume in the nose that transcends mere Viognier aromas – lavender and wildflowers highlight a fascinating aromatic profile. The wine is smooth and the spreads easily across the palate, with dense Syrah flavors and a slight dusty astringency that is quite pleasant. George Heritier has tasting notes too or move on to the Farewell Barbeque
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