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Tasting Notes and Storyline by Bastardo
Labor Day in London (Ontario), and
Not unlike the old home and home series that used to be a regular feature in the Original 6 days of the NHL, we’ve developed a "system" with our Canadian compadres in the Gang. They’d visit Gang Central, then we’d return the favor. However, they’d visited two or three times since (NOT)ZAP, and we were overdue for a drive to Byron. So, we decided on Labor Day weekend, and were happy that the Bored Doughnuts would not only join us, but do the driving too. What’s more, we’d made arrangements to have WineSpec Board regular El Duce join us as well. We were all looking forward to meeting a 20-year-old who knows as much about French wines as we did, if not more! The weather was beautiful, the wines were lovely, and there was a nice pool to cool off in at Chateau ZinCan, so what more could we ask for? Here’re some of the highlights of the next two days: 1995 Calera Viognier Mt. Harlan: This medium straw was something of a consternation. On the one hand, it had very rich concentrated apple/pear/hint of hazelnut on the finish flavors, but none of the floral elements that we associate with the varietal; instead, there was a matchstick note that was interesting in its own way. Canadian Zinfan described it as "creamy and quite closed, actually." At around $30-35 US, these don’t come cheap, and while it was very pleasant, I’d spend my money on other things. 1985 Heidsick & Monopole Diamant Bleu Brut Champagne: WOW! What a ‘pagne! Pale gold with streams of tiny bubbles that don’t quit, and flavors and aromas of toast/spice/yeast/bread dough/pear/hints of smoke/vanilla and some matchstick on the nose. Very rich and delicious, I’d love to get to know this one better. It was from BD’s cellar and was wonderful with CZ’s brilliant bouillabaisse. 1995 Henry of Pelham Chardonnay Niagara Barrel Fermented: The Canadians’d be miffed if I didn’t mention this, and in fact it was a very nice wine, if a little out of its league with many of the others. Pale straw, with pretty vanilla/pear/cream flavors and aromas, it’s not that big on the palate, but it has good varietal character, and also went well with the bouillabaisse. 1991 Guigal Cote Rotie Brune et Blonde: Another WOW! This caught everybody’s attention right away. A terrific Syrah (along with 5% Viognier), this is a dark, inky garnet, with all kinds of things going on as it opened. The first thing that hit you was effusive notes of plum that expanded to include lots of sweet licorice/raspberry/cassis/black berry/chocolate/freshly crushed peppercorn/ black saltwater toffee/olive and subtler touches of lime essence/rosemary/thyme/ gamy meat on the nose and palate. Mr. Flippy called it "silky," while noting a "nice acidity on ze finish." Everyone liked this, and if I had any in "the cellar," I’d be hard pressed to keep my hands off, it’s so good right now.
Four blind Bordeauxs and a "ringer" – El Duce’s first blind tasting 1985 Chateau Camensac Haut-Medoc Despite being decidedly hip, El Duce confessed that he’d never been to a blind tasting. No problem, just hang with the Gang, dude! (In fact, we all knew which wines we’d taste, just not the order.) #1. Dark garnet, with cassis/plum/barnyard and a hint o’ cigar box the on the nose and palate. Some notes of chocolate and cedar come out with air. El D found elements of pipe tobacco and autumn leaves, and opined that this was the Camansac. Zinfan, ‘deauxnut and this taster all named this as the Lunch Bag, but Mr. Flippy correctly identified it as the Talbot. A very lovely Bordeaux. #2. Another dark garnet, The Director noticed aquarium on the nose, and Zinchick mentioned spinach. I was surprised when at least three people called this the Simi right away, because despite what seemed like a big Cab aroma, it didn’t seem at all Californian. The fruit was clean, red currant/cherry/kirsch flavors and aromas and hints of cigar box that added some interest. Medium full bodied, this finished a little short and seemed a bit light, which made me suspicious that it might have a good dose of Merlot; thus, I named it as the Pomerol. Only Mr. Flippy disagreed, calling it the Camansac, but this time he was wrong, and we were right. #3. Dark garnet, with dry red currant/cherry and some tobacco. The simplest wine to this point, it had creamy ripe tannins, and was nice enough, but didn’t live up to the competition. CZ, BD and this taster correctly identified it as the Camansac, while El D called it the Lunch Bag, and Flippy said it was the Les Clos. #4. One whiff of this and there was no doubt that it was the Simi. Big oak made for lotsa vanilla/coconut/chocolate/blueberry/maple syrup/mint that no one present could remotely confuse as being French. El Duce was reminded of rocky road ice cream. #5. El D and BD named this as the Talbot right away, as did we all, except Mr. Flippy. It seemed the youngest, showing big, slightly vegetal black currant/tar/licorice/plum/cigar box/Provencal herb, with plenty of tannins and acidity. Mr. Flippy called it right again, saying that this was the Lynch Bages. Another terrific wine that can use some time in the cellar. To be fair, the Camansac and Les Clos are fine wines that would show better when considered on their own terms, with good food, but along side the Talbot and Lynch Bages, they were clearly overwhelmed. The Simi was something else altogether, with all the oak, and while no one expressed a preference for it, no one expressed a dislike, either. 1990 Domaine Du Pegau Chateauneaf-du-Pape Reservee: CZ sprung this on us as a "mystery wine. Purple garnet with perfumed plum/red currant/spicy bramble/briar and notes of lavender/chocolate that emerge with air; no one came close to guessing what this was. I was thinking Zin, with the bramble/briar, but was obviously a long way off. Every bit as good as the 1991 Guigal Cote-Rotie in its own way, with none of the barnyard aspects often found in wines from this appellation, it’s easily the prettiest CdP I’ve ever tasted.
1989 Trimbach Riesling Clos Ste. Hune Vendanges Tardives: El Duce brought this along, and having only read about it, I was dying to try it. It more than lived up to its reputation, and wowed everyone. Pale gold with a hint o’ spice and petrol on the nose to go along with the soft pear and apricot flavors and aromas, and lovely notes of mineral/wet stone. EL D said "It smells like a clean mountain stream," and I added "with flowers." It was a little oily and slightly sweet; hopefully, some benefactor will give me another taste in the future, because I doubt I’ll find much of it anywhere, and it’s one of the best whites I’ve had, period. 1994 Domaine Des Baumard Savennieres: We should have had this before the Trimbach, instead of immediately afterwards because it’s a decidedly drier wine. Medium straw to pale gold, this was crisp and acidic, a perfect match for a warm summer’s day, but overshadowed by the richness of the Riesling. Still, once the memory of the St. Hune diminished, it showed pleasant notes of grapefruit and what El D called "lamp oil." Very nice. 1997 Oyster Bay Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough New Zealand: My kind o’ Sauvignon, even if I didn’t pull it out. (The ‘deauxnut did.) Medium straw, crisp and grassy, with nice grapefruit, a hint o’ smoke and good acidity. Excellent QPR at $14 Canadian.
1995 Domaine Des Baumard Quarts de Chaume: The crème de la crème, the coup d’ gras, the piece de la resistance. BD brought this, and it bowled everybody over. Medium straw, and quite sweet, but not cloying, this has all kinds of things going on it. El Duce described "apricot/trail mix/mineral, dried fruits all over the place with wet earth on the palate; the essence of Chenin Blanc." Intensely concentrated, with a definite hit of honey, this was the perfect way to end our second day’s tasting. Easy to see why Bobby Parker gave this a 98. And as wonderful as it is now, it’s only going to get better as the years go by. As always happens at a gathering of the Gang, we had a terrific time, and we were very impressed with El Duce’s knowledge and taste. He and his friend Susie have a standing invitation to join us anytime we get together.
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