Fall Z list tasting
6 September 2003

2001 Chardonnay Santa Cruz Mountains – 100% Monte Bello Estate 14.8% alcohol – fairly oaky in the nose, but this is common in bottlings of this wine at release – hints of citrus and some floral notes – very pretty in the mouth with more floral notes than are usually found in the wine – crisp acidity and balanced structure – a nicely crafted wine that could be enjoyed tonight or cellared for five years and likely longer.

1995 Zinfandel Jimsomare – 100% Zinfandel 13.6% alcohol 10 barrels produced – rich and fairly ripe fruit in the nose – smells older than its age – fresh and bright in the mouth with the firm acid structure typical of this property – a medium bodied wine that is certainly drinkable now but could no doubt age further.

1997 Zinfandel Jimsomare – 100% Zinfandel 14.8% alcohol – significantly deeper color than the 95 – the nose offers ripe fruit with tarry undertones – sweet in the mouth with somewhat subdued fruit flavors – some of the usually firm tannins remain, and my preference would be to give the wine an additional two to four years of bottle age.

2001 Geyserville – 74% Zinfandel 18% Carignane 8% Petite Sirah 14.4% alcohol – this is the 40^th anniversary bottling – restrained in the nose, but some of the sweet plummy fruit peeks through – in the mouth the wine is just beautiful with a surprising harmony and presence – shows just a small fraction of what it will become, but it has remarkable balance that it is unlikely to lose – the tannins are polished, the finish is clean, and while not a big Geyserville, I think this will become a classic Geyserville as it gains age in the bottle.

2001 Zinfandel Pagani Ranch – 88% Zinfandel 8% Alicante Bouschet 4% Petite Sirah 15.4% alcohol – As geo would say: "Wowsers!" – this is a throwback to the 92 with a huge, jammy, ‘splat in your face’ fruity nose – equally impressive in the mouth with ripe mouth-filling flavors – has the unmistakable signature Pagani flavor profile – despite the alcohol, it shows little heat now. For those who like full throttle, fruit driven Zinfandel, this is certainly the wine for you.

2001 Zinfandel York Creek Late Picked – 78% Zinfandel 20% Petite Sirah 2% Carignane 15.9% alcohol 28.5 brix at harvest 0.2% residual sugar – sweet and ripe fruity aromas (duh!) – bright and sweet in the mouth with firm acids and noticeable alcoholic heat – a bit too hot for my palate, but for those who like this late picked style, this is a good example of York Creek fruit, especially given the high percentage of Petite Sirah.

2000 Zinfandel Nervo Late Picked – 91% Zinfandel 9% Petite Sirah 15.7% alcohol 28.8% brix at harvest 0.6% residual sugar – ultra-ripe plummy fruit in the nose, more red than purple or black – fairly well balanced in the mouth with the RS adding to the wine, rather than becoming a dominating feature. I’m not a fan of late picked Zins, but this is a bottle I could enjoy over the next couple of years. I’m afraid that with much more bottle time, the bright fruit might recede, leaving only sugar and the other structural components.

2000 Santa Cruz Mountains – 64% Cabernet Sauvignon 20% Merlot 6% Petite Verdot 12.9% alcohol – all the fruit is from the Monte Bello Vineyard – labeled as "Santa Cruz Mountains" because it does not meet the requirements for varietal labeling – designated on the website as "Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot.

Just lovely aromas of dark berry fruits – I think the Merlot may be the predominant aroma rather than the Cabernet Sauvignon at this point – sweet and pretty in the mouth with nicely balanced flavors and excellent structure – the tannins are a bit forward right now, but are too smooth and polished to worry about. A wine that will require some patience, to be sure, except for the tannin fans, but shows a harmony and presence in the mouth that leaves no doubt as to its potential.

I wouldn’t be surprised if some tasters consider the 2001 Geyserville to be a bit lackluster. It’s not showing any particular power or depth right now. While I may agree to some extent, it might be wise to keep in mind that Geyserville doesn’t show very well until at least a year or two out from release, and the impeccable balance of this wine leads me to believe that this will be a classic, if not great Geyserville. It should age effortlessly. I’ll certainly be adding a case to my cellar.

Secondly, this group of wines showed an amazing harmony and marvelous balance (except as noted with the late picked wines). The 2001 Zinfandels are a great pleasure to drink, and Ridge continues to move from strength to strength.

califusa
Left Coast Correspondent
Gang of Pour

© Allan Bree September 2003