Holiday Re-Releases
14 December 2003

2000 Chardonnay Santa Cruz Mountains - 14.8% alcohol 63 barrels produced - the aromatics are a bit on the shy side today - faint pear, mineral and subtle shades of oak - in the mouth the fruit flavors are subdued with more stone and mineral flavors components at the fore - the wine comes across as bone dry and slightly austere - this is a serious Chardonnay that will gain more complexity with some bottle age (as this wine often does).

2001 Grenache Lytton Estate ATP- 78% Grenache 12% Petite Sirah 10% Zinfandel 14.4% alcohol 52 barrels produced - fairly bright and sweet cherry notes in the nose - the flavors follow the nose on the palate with a subtle gamy quality that is quite attractive - round and well balanced in the mouth with some slightly drying tannins up front, but not enough to mar the overall impression of the wine. It may be starting to close down just a bit - the fresh and forward fruitiness that I noted at an earlier tasting has faded a tad. I look forward to tasting this wine as it evolves into what I think will be an excellent expression of California Grenache.

1997 Zinfandel Jimsomare ATP- 100% Zinfandel 14.8% alcohol 13 barrels produced from two small parcels planted in the 19th century - typical aromatics of JimZin, featuring the chalky minerality that characterizes wine from this property, with added sweet berry aromas - bright red berry flavors lead the way on the palate with the usual firm acids following - the tannins have softened considerably, making this wine surprisingly approachable for such a young bottling. There is room for additional aging, but the wine is in a very nice place right now.

1997 Zinfandel York Creek - 95% Zinfandel 5% Petite Sirah 15.3% alcohol - very "York" in the nose with the tarry, almost licorice-like aromatic notes over black fruit compote - a big wine in the mouth with muddled black fruits, firm acids and some significant but soft tannins - still several years from optimal drinking for my palate, but the wine is nevertheless enjoyable for its big structure and concentrated flavors - not for the faint of heart.

2001 Zinfandel Dusi Ranch ATP - 100% Zinfandel 15.2% alcohol 52 barrels produced - pretty purple plum and dark raspberry aromas - soft, sweet and lovely in the mouth - very nicely balanced. For those who characterize Paso Robles Zinfandels as being over-ripe, pruney or raisiney, this may be the wine to disabuse you of that notion. The wine is drinking just beautifully right now, and those of you looking for early drinkers among the ATP wines will be very pleased. It is not often that I find a wine from this program that I recommend opening right away, but if you care to, here is one I would put on that list. But do it soon, as the tannins are just beginning to assert themselves, and the wine may begin to close down over the next several months.

2001 Geyserville - 74% Zinfandel 18% Carignane 8% Petite Sirah 14.4% alcohol - 40th anniversary bottling - this pour is from a recently opened bottle - shows less in the way of fruit and more in the way of subtle mushroom and earthy aromatics that make this wine so unique - a bit more expressive in the mouth, showing some pleasant sweetness, but the fruit flavors are still somewhat subdued. I still like the balanced structure of this vintage, and it is not uncommon for Geyserville to be fairly unimpressive for the first year or two after release - this version is no different. I insist that this will be a "classic" Geezer - maybe not a blockbuster in the mold of the 95 or 91, but a classically structure and flavored wine that will reward your faith 8 and 10 years down the road and possibly longer.

2002 Mataro Pato Vineyard - 75% Mataro 25% Zinfandel 14.9% alcohol 38 barrels produced - the first Ridge Mataro from this property located in the hills near Oakley in Contra Costa County, the vines were planted in 1896 - aromatically, the wine is (not surprisingly) reminiscent of the Bridgehead and Evangelo editions of this variety - the aromas are ripe and sweet, rather plummy and quite pretty - soft yet dense in the mouth with a very pleasant concentration of flavors - nicely approachable. This is the first of the 2002 releases that Mr. Draper was so excited about, and he has reason to be. This is another early drinker from the ATP, and paired with the right foods, will make a lovely match over the next several months. A very fine first edition from this justifiably well known property.

OK - stand back - it's the

2001 Petite Sirah Essence Lytton Estate - 75% Petite Sirah 25% Zinfandel alcohol 37.2 % (just kidding) it's really 14.2% residual sugar is 143...nope - 10% 12 barrels produced - the aromatics neither as effusive nor impressive as when I first sampled this wine, although it teases the nose with hints of super sweet Petite Sirah and fleeting nuances of difficult to identify spice, leather and other exotic fragrances - on the palate there is little more that sweetness and structure - certainly it has the requisite sugar, acid and tannin to survive the long haul. Based on my first tasting of this, rather than today's, I still think it has the potential to be something special. And don't forget that this is Petite Sirah we're talking about - purchasing this wine will require a leap of faith and lots of patience.

califusa
Left Coast Correspondent
Gang of Pour

© Allan Bree December 2003