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Editor's Note:
We are pleased to
welcome Allan Bree back to Gang of
Pour. Allan was the Gang’s Left Coast Correspondent for several years,
during which time he conducted winemaker interviews and filed reports on
a variety of events and wineries, most especially, our beloved Ridge
Vineyards. Presented here is a reprise of Allan’s report from two years
ago on a tasting of venerable Ridge Monte Bellos. We look forward with
great anticipation to Allan’s future contributions.
Over the
years, Paul Draper’s name has become synonymous with Ridge
Vineyards - and deservedly so. Only a very few California winemakers
have created a track record as impressive with not only Cabernet
Sauvignon, but Zinfandel blends and to a lesser extent, Chardonnay.
While Mr. Draper is more than deserving of all the accolades, from time
to time I reflect on the fact that Dave Bennion,
Ridge Vineyards’ first winemaker, and one of the original partners,
built the foundation upon which Mr. Draper has created his impressive
legacy. His eleven vintages with Monte Bello fruit and other sources
pointed the way for his winery and many others to follow.
Eight of us gathered a few weeks ago to sample an assortment of Dave
Bennion’s wines along with a few of Paul Draper’s early efforts with
Ridge. The group included two winemakers, a retailer, a wine buyer and a
wine journalist.
The wines were decanted off the sediment and poured immediately. They
were served in flights of two, then retasted with food. I’ve also
included the notes from the back labels followed by my comments and
those of the tasters.
1966 Ridge California Ruby Cabernet (alc. 13.1%)
White capsule. No notes specific to this wine on back label.
Light ruby color with scant signs of age – reticent nose initially, “old
wine” aromas with mint/menthol overtones – aromatically, more Cabernet
Sauvignon than anything else. Quite lively in the mouth with subdued but
lovely flavors that are not easily discernable from Cabernet Sauvignon –
bright acids keep the wine interesting – with time, herbal notes emerge:
sage, tea – long, long finish.
Other tasters:
- Smoky, dried herbs, garrigue, sage, mint,
very good acidity…juicy with sour cherry, tea…youthful
- Sparkly fresh…very high-toned for its age
- Lively. Lean. Light eucalyptus, dirty red
raspberries…almost disappeared, then came back
- Aromas of candied cherries, wet mulch and
stones. Fabulous texture as the wine simply glides onto the palate…cran-cherry
fruit, eucalyptus tea and cedar cigar box
- Surprisingly alive…notes of Darjeeling tea
and dried leaves. A joy to drink not only because it’s good, but
because of the absurdity of it all – a 40 year old Ruby Cabernet!
1971 Ridge Carignan, Coast Range, bottled 4/73
(alc. 13.6%) Find Ridge Carignan
“This wine is not one that we normally
make at Ridge yet it is so widely used in California to blend
with other red varietals, that it is of decided interest to
taste as a 100% varietal. The wine is quite big and surprisingly
rich with a good fruit and oak in the nose, and the softness of
a full malo-lactic fermentation. It should be drinkable next
year and yet will not be
in its prime for five years of more. PD (5/73)“
Rich garnet color – dazzling earthy aromas of
sweet red stone fruits –little attack up-front – the wine simply
appears on the mid-palate –smooth and velvety as can be – amazing
texture and a joy to drink.
Other tasters:
- Earthy, dried mushrooms, meaty, dried
out fruit but pleasantly vivid palate…opened up very nicely
- Smoky, tobacco nose. Very little
fruit initially – came out soon in the glass and held up
well all night
- Burned caramel, vanilla, flan. Pretty
poopy
- Initially came across as
tired/fading. More alive in the mouth than expected…served
blind I’d guess an older Bordeaux…soft finish with the
sweetness that comes from age…actually drinking quite well
- Dusty, dry cherry…the acid pokes
through and carries this like a mid-weight burgundy…cohesive
and fresh. Carrying its age very gracefully
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1963 Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon, bottled
January 1968 (alc. 10.7%) Find Ridge Monte Bello Cabernet
“We wrote in RIDGE Wine List
Number 2 (November 1966), while this wine was still in
barrel: "Light in some ways because of the cool year,
but still heavy in tannin, hence long in coming to
maturity." Given over four years in wood and over five
in bottle, we now think this wine is near a peak. DRB
(8/72)”
Airy, with coastal aromas of wild
herbs and secondary notes of graphite and minerality.
Attractive and balanced dark stone fruit flavors with fine
tannins that clip the finish to start, but the wine fleshes
out
beautifully and develops both breadth and length.
Other tasters:
- Gorgeous, captivating perfume,
pleasantly herbaceous with tobacco…very well balanced,
bright Bing cherry, great length
- Hard as nails…No, wait! It’s
Monte Bello! Acidity to spare. Fruit is lean…menthol and
mint. Lasted strong for half the night
- Vibrant and juicy. Missing a
little mid-palate
- Muddled, dried flowers, cassis.
The aromas are still fairly deep and undeniably
charming. Lively in the mouth – plenty of acidity. Great
balance in a feminine/elegant/racy style – California
meets Margaux. Did not fare well with extended aeration
- Aromas of juniper berry, coastal
sage, wild tobacco, black currants. Clean and
focused on the palate with a fair amount of tannic
structure that follows through. Dried herbs and savory
red & black fruit. The texture is remarkable, sexy,
feminine and flavors seemingly appear on the
palate like a summer breeze. After an hour this is
singing. Tannin has evolved from a main player to a
stage upon which the mulberry, tree bark, cherry fruit,
cigar tobacco and mineral elements dance. A beautiful,
majestic, complete wine and my WOTN
1965 Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon, bottled
October 1969 (alc. 11.6%) Find Ridge Monte Bello Cabernet
“In June, 1969, we said of the
earlier bottling (June 1968) of this vintage: "Full
of natural pigments and tannins because of our
methods of vinification, the wine will develop
elegance with bottle-aging as some of these
substances precipitate on to the inner surface of
the bottle." This single barrel seemed less ready to
bottle in 1968; hence the delay of over a year. DRB
(8/72)”
A touch of funk on the nose,
followed by saline/herbal/iodine aromas –pretty fruit
flavors, but a short finish with drying tannins. After
30 minutes, the wine had fallen apart showing only
tannins and sharp acids.
Other tasters:
- First “ah-ha” wine right
out of the first sip. Clearly Monte Bello.
Started lush, but it’s fading quickly…green
later. Falling apart
- Pretty hot…then dry.
Pretty much had it
- Overripe aromas.
Monolithic. VA. Probably was a tannic young wine
that has aged into a tannic old wine. Utterly
without charm
- Slightly medicinal
nose…bit hollow on the mid-palate, slightly
green and vegetal yet smoky and meaty
- Ripe nose…predominantly fruit up front, but
there is some metallic, animal/gamey character I
can’t seem to get past…simple and monolithic…the
tannins continue to be drying as the evening
wears on and eventually this falls apart
1966 Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon,
bottled March 1972 (alc. 13.8%) Find Ridge Monte Bello Cabernet
“This big, long-lived
wine has less than perfect balance.
Therefore most of the harvest was used as
the basis for our formerly released
nonvintage Cabernets 66/69 and 66/71.
Clearly, this single-barrel amount of the 66
vintage is strictly for collectors. DRB
(10/72)”
Perfectly ripe fruit
aromas with tobacco/sage nuances – rich and full
in the mouth with upfront ripe purple and black
fruits that fill the mouth. Long finish. Tasted
blind, I might guess the 87 or 90.
Other tasters:
- Black currants,
deep and plumy. Ripe but balanced. A
small bit of VA showing but it actually
adds complexity. Comes across as full
and young in the mouth – I’d be at least
a decade off if I had to guess the
vintage. 40 years old and it’s still a
bit disjointed …doesn’t match
particularly well with the food
- Very oaky nose,
pungent with volatile acidity…picked
over-ripe?…palate is better than nose
- Invades the
senses almost audaciously
- Mint, earth,
spice…some VA, some big acid. Later in
the night it got disorganized
- This is extremely
dark, purple, with slight touch of heat
on the nose although it is not
obtrusive, however the VA is,
unfortunately. Pie crust, black plums,
pencil shavings, cedar, and rustic dried
herbs. This is much more like a barrel
sample than a 30-year-old wine. Good
freshness, somewhat grapey, and sauvage,
but the VA is a deal-breaker, it doesn’t
“blow off” as the night progresses (why
do people think it just
goes away?).
1967 Ridge Cabernet
Sauvignon, bottled 10/70. (alc. 12.3%) Find Ridge Monte Bello Cabernet
“This is the
primary batch of our 1967 Cabernet
Sauvignon. It is slightly lighter
than the bottling (11/69) released
earlier. However, it has a little
more wood from the added time in
cask and is big and dark compared to
the average Cabernet wine. Compared
to earlier RIDGE Cabernets, it is
intermediate in body between the
1962 and 1964 vintages, i.e. more
like the 1965. DRB (3/71)”
Shy nose of
minerals, tea, sea air – restrained and
elegant in the mouth– very lady-like,
but doesn’t last long in the glass.
Other tasters:
- Pungent
aromas of dried herbs, cherries
and slightly stewed tomatoes. A
bit of bretty/poop rears its
head. Initially thin on entry.
This wine is charming, feminine
for about 45 minutes, then
begins to discombobulate…Elvis
has left the building
- More
balanced than the 66, but not
much going on…minimal fruit
- Totally non-offensive, but
not memorable. Subtle and
balanced though. Very lady-like
- Earth,
tobacco, very clean and focused
nose…plenty of tannins left…not
too complex but pleasant
- Stuffy
and medicinal at first then
floral with cough syrup notes.
Quite dry and tannic – the fruit
is long gone. Not bad but one
dimensional
1968
Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon, main
harvest, bottled 4/71 (alc.
12.7%) Find Ridge Monte Bello Cabernet
“Though picked at only
slightly higher sugar
content than the 1967 crop,
the 68 grapes from our fully
mature Cabernet vineyard
produced a wine even richer
and fuller. We recommend to
collectors that they
consider not opening it,
except for testing and
evaluation, until 1978 at
the earliest. DRB (8/71)”
More of
the mineral/saline driven
aromatic profile – very much
like the 67 aromatically.
Beautiful balance in the mouth
with lovely texture –fine
tannins on the back end with
time – velvety texture, lovely
balance.
Other
tasters:
- The most obvious Santa
Cruz Mountain nose thus
far – black olives, sage
and other herbs. Not
quite Bordeaux but a
million miles from the
Napa Valley. Big, young,
structured and tannic in
the mouth but everything
is in balance. It
doesn’t taste old at all
– Great extract, great
texture –this is the
real thing
- Green olives, plenty of
spices…impeccable
balance, seamless mouth
feel with plenty of oak
and fruit, very long
finish
- Green olive. VERY nice.
Finish broadens out
well. Possibly the wine
best caught between
youth and age. A mile
long. Favorite of the
night? Yes!
- Nice, gentle, subtle.
Balanced
- Consider the smell of
orange blossoms next to
a corral. The aroma of
this ’68 is utterly
striking, very complex,
and captivating. Very
balanced on the palate,
clean meaty, slight VA
and classy texture. This
is regal juice.
1970 Ridge Cabernet
Sauvignon, bottled
December 1972 (alc.
131/2%) [Draper’s first
Monte Bello] Find Ridge Monte Bello Cabernet
“The grapes produced
on Monte Bello Ridge
in 1970 were in the
tradition of the big
years (e.g. '64,
'68) of the last
decade. By
completing a
malolactic
fermentation
immediately
following the
harvest and by
effecting a racking
schedule along
Bordeaux lines, we
produced a wine that
has Monte Bellos's
richness and depth
yet is softer in
style. It could be
ready to try in two
years, though it
will continue to
develop and show its
vigor some twenty
years hence. PD
(1/73)”
Red fruit aromas with
menthol/mint/eucalyptus
notes – almost
indescribably beautiful
in the mouth with
flavors, texture and
balance that approach
perfection.
Other
tasters:
-
This wine is
decidedly
different from
the previous
vintages. The
caveman has
traded his
crusty fur for a
three-piece
suit. He’s still
barefoot though,
and the
mineral/earth
character still
shines through.
Pungent cedar,
tobacco,
castelvetrano
olive tapenade
character.
Dusted cherry,
iron blood, and
smoked meat. No
danger in this
one going over
the hill soon
-
Chewy (a good
thing) That chew
that you want to
pursue!
-
More tart than
some of the
others. Might
need age, which
seems stupid to
even say. Coming
around well
after 40
minutes. Wow!
Big wine
-
Dried cherries,
cassis, very
creamy mouth
feel, full
bodied, showing
almost no age,
this puppy has
so much life
left,
tremendous!
-
High toned
aromatics…obviously
made from ripe
grapes.
Big/dumb/young
with lots of
everything. More
about size and
ripeness than
elegance and
finesse, but it
is absolutely
terrific with
the lamb
1972 Ridge Cabernet
Sauvignon, Monte
Bello, bottled
9/74 (alc.
12.8%) Find Ridge Monte Bello Cabernet
“In 1972 the
grapes
reached good
balance and
were
harvested on
the Ridge
the day
before the
premature
winter
rains. The
picking just
at maturity,
rather than
our usual
course of
allowing the
grapes to
slightly
over-ripen,
provided a
Bordeaux-like
elegance.
This lovely,
full wine,
softened by
the
malolactic
fermentation,
shows strong
varietal
character.
Although
ready for
tasting this
spring, it
should be
laid down
for five to
ten years.
PD (10/74)”
Coconut and
medicinal aromas
with little
interest or
charm. It went
downhill from
there.
Other tasters:
-
Light,
perfumey,
lots of
VA.
Rough
hewn
without
much
flavor
or
charm.
Too much
tannin,
too
little
fruit
-
Almost
too
oaky,
bit
disjointed
on the
nose,
lacks
fruit,
green
gritty
tannins
yet has
a
strange
surmaturite
sweetness,
out of
balance
-
Coconut
frosting.
Oak
death.
Oops!
Only bad
wine on
the
table
-
Like
eating
artificially
flavored
coconut
frosting
out of a
plastic
tub
-
Initial
whack of
oak on
the
nose,
which
gives
way to
vanilla
scented
candles,
buttered
popcorn
and
coconut.
Flavors
echo
aromas,
and this
dark
colored
juice
makes
consistent
right
turns
from
wood, to
Mounds
bars, to
medicinal/green
herbs
After an
hour
Peter
Paul
decides
to let
some of
the
fruit
out of
its
cage,
and it
is
decidedly
black
currant
in
profile
Then:
There is
a half
bottle
of this
left on
day 2 –
this has
transformed
from an
oak-bomb
to a
butterfly
of a
wine.
Crisp,
red and
black
fruit,
mineral,
with
alluring
texture,
this is
round
and
generous.
Gorgeous
and
supple,
yet
maintaining
freshness.
As
dramatic
a
transformation
as I can
remember.
Glorious!
1974
Ridge Cabernet
Sauvignon,
Monte
Bello,
bottled
Oct 76
(alc.
12.9%) Find Ridge Monte Bello Cabernet
“In
the
superb
harvest
of
1974,
both
the
seven
and
the
thirty
year
old
vines
matured
fully
and
gave
us a
wine
with
the
richness
and
complexity
of a
great
vintage.
The
secondary
fermentation
was
complete
by
that
December
and
the
wine
was
racked
to
small
oak
cooperage.
This
intense
Cabernet
will
be
showing
considerable
depth
by
next
fall,
but
should
have
five
to
ten
years
of
bottle
age
to
develop
fully.
PD
(10/76)”
Very shy
at
first,
then
closes
down
completely.
Barely
approachable.
This
bottle
was a
true
Garbo.
Try
again in
ten
years or
more.
Other
tasters:
- Reticent aromas, giving up very little. On the palate there is something, then the black hole quickly closes to reveal gobs of nothing. As Randy Jackson would say: “It’s not your night ‘dog’.”
- Deep black fruit nose with licorice, black pepper and currants, very tannic, shut down, needs to age much longer
- Young. Hard. I think this wine needs another 10 years
- Burned poop. Tannic
- Sweet oak, mahogany, black olives and some prune Danish aromas from the ripeness of the grapes. Comes across as quite young in the mouth – tannic and impenetrable. Lots of depth and the structure of a great claret, a Saint-Julien perhaps
My personal favorite was the 70, spooned by the 63 and 68 intermittently.
Many thanks to Jon, Kira, Gence, Richard, Yuriko, Matt and Helene for making the evening so wonderful. And a very special thank you to a benefactor who prefers to remain anonymous. Your gifts turned a special event into an extraordinary retrospective.
It’s not hard to discern the stylistic shift Mr. Draper brought to Ridge, but the sense of place was intact through every year of Monte Bello we tasted. And for a guy who didn’t know what he was doing, Dave Bennion sure knew what he was doing.
Raise a glass in his honor tonight, my friends. He earned it.
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