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As many of you know, I’m a card carrying
member of the National Cynical Party, a distinction I wear rather
proudly. |
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 In a brilliant marketing maneuver, they opened a high visibility tasting room on Highway 29, next door to Dean & DeLuca and directly across from V. Sattui. The room has recently been completely redesigned, creating an environment that will appeal to a whole new generation of wine lovers and includes a covered rooftop patio for entertaining. Flora Springs has quite deftly created a 21st century image while honoring and preserving its 19th century heritage – quite an admirable accomplishment. During what turned out to be a fascinating morning, I had the opportunity to spend some time with Paul Steinauer, who after 18 years as assistant winemaker, was promoted to winemaker last year, ensuring continuity in style. Paul is a relaxed and friendly guy, reflecting the low key style of communication that is the norm at Flora Springs. My sense is that there is no “stylistic shift” in store for the winery – rather, they will build upon their house style of user friendly wines, intended for consumption with food. I spent even more time with Sean Garvey, grandson of the founders of Flora Springs. As Communications and Production Director, his work involves every aspect of winery operations. We enjoyed a wide ranging conversation while he tasted me through the line of current releases.
 2007 Sauvignon Blanc Soliloquy
Vineyard – 100% Sauvignon Blanc
(70% Musqué clone, 30% Soliloquy proprietary clone) 14.2% alcohol 2000 cases
produced $27.00. Following fermentation, the wine is aged sur lees in large,
neutral oak uprights.Very friendly entry showing mostly white stone fruits and a supple mouthfeel – despite the soft attack, the wine has refreshing acidity that is not apparent until the midpalate and finishes very cleanly. No trouble getting past the first glass of this rather unique Sauvignon Blanc. Find this wine 2007 Pinot Grigio – 13.9% alcohol $14.00. Grown at the Oakville Crossroads Vineyard – all stainless steel. The aromatics were a bit restrained due to the cold serving temperature, but yielded some citrus overtones with a bit of interesting spice – very friendly entry – the acids that give the wine its refreshing personality become evident in the midpalate, and (like the Sauvignon Blanc) avoid a sharp attack or “lemon squirt” acid profile, resulting in a wine with a pleasing and friendly texture, yet refreshing acid structure. I consider this a considerable accomplishment that adds enormous appeal to these two wines – particularly this backyard summer quaffer offered at a very attractive price. Find this wine  2007 Chardonnay Napa Valley Barrel Fermented – 100% Chardonnay
4000 cases produced $30.00. This wine is sourced from four vineyards – two
in Carneros. It does not undergo malolactic fermentation and sees 50% new French
oak for eight months.Despite the “barrel fermented” designation, scant noticeable oak is found in the nose or on the palate – aromas of peach, mixed melon with high toned citrus highlights follow in the mouth – creamy and smooth on the palate, the wine’s texture is extremely appealing - well crafted and deftly handled, this is a fine winemaking achievement. Richly flavored yet refreshing, this is one of the rare California Chardonnays I could drink all the way through a meal. Well done. Find this wine 2006 Chardonnay Select Cuvée - $35.00 Medium weight Chardonnay fruit in the nose with hints of vanillin and oak overtones that follow in the mouth - the wine enjoys a nice balance and while it may not be my cup of tea, those who enjoy the familiarity of oak flavors in Chardonnay will no doubt find this wine appealing. Find this wine  2006 Trilogy - 73% Cabernet Sauvignon 20% Merlot 5% Cabernet
Franc 2% Petit Verdot 14.2% alcohol 6500 cases produced $65.00. This is the 22nd
vintage of Trilogy, Flora Spring’s flagship wine. It is blended from the finest
lots of estate fruit and sees 22 months in 100% new French oak. Sweet berry/cherry fruits in the nose with a hint of caramel – supple and friendly in the mouth with a bit of Rutherford dust and a noticeable harmony. Lovely. Find this wine 2005 Trilogy - 66% Cabernet Sauvignon 23% Merlot 7% Cabernet Franc 4% Malbec 14.2% alcohol 5000 cases produced $65.00. This classically structured vintage marks Flora Springs’ 30th Anniversary Slightly deeper color than the 2006 – shows more sweet berry and cherry fruit aromatically – also shows more structure and unobtrusive long chain tannins along with the requisite acids needed for short to medium term aging. Drink the 06 while you’re waiting for this one to come around. Find this wine  2005 Cabernet Sauvignon Rutherford Hillside Reserve – 100%
Cabernet Sauvignon 14.2% alcohol 304 cases produced $100.00. This wine is
sourced from the Komes Ranch, Block J, planted in 1985 to Clone J on 110R
rootstock. After fermentation, the wine ages in half new French Oak and half two
year old barrels – after 8-9 months it is racked to all new barrels.Initially shows a plume of minty aromatics that is there, and then gone – on second pass, the wine shows a certain limestone minerality on a base of perfectly ripe Cabernet Sauvignon aromas – smooth and seductive entry with an voluptuous mouthfeel – texturally very attractive with ripe varietal flavors that coat the palate and beg for another taste – clean and lingering finish. An absolutely first class wine. Find this wine 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon St. Helena Rennie Reserve – 100% Cabernet Sauvignon 14.2% alcohol 500 cases produced $100.00. Sourced from the Komes Ranch, Old Block C, planted in 1988 to Clone 7 on 5-C rootstock. The oak program is the same as the Hillside Reserve.  Shy, but sweet/ripe berry and cherry aromatics as mirrored in the 06 and 07
tasted last weekend – very friendly
entry and a rather complete wine, both flavor-wise and texturally - whereas the
Hillside might argue for another year or two in bottle, this Rennie is
completely approachable and ready to drink right now – not for a moment
forgetting that it has the necessary structural components for short to medium
term aging if you wish, but I wouldn’t bother since it is so enticing right now.
Find this wineI rarely recommend labels across the board, but in this case an exception is in order – you can purchase anything in Flora Springs’ lineup and be confident that there is a finely crafted, cleanly made, food friendly and eminently drinkable wine in the bottle. After our tasting, Sean was gracious enough to introduce me to John Komes and his son, Nat. They invited me to join them for lunch at the tasting room on the highway and, of course, I accepted. I was thinking that a ham and swiss on rye would taste good, but since it was the week of Auction Napa Valley, my hosts had something else in mind, and invited a few more friends. Many thanks to Sean Garvey, Jason Bullock, John Komes, Nat Komes, Paul Steinauer and the other staff members at Flora Springs for their extraordinary hospitality. I’m a believer. califusa June 2009 © Allan Bree |
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I have, however, been completely won over by the wines, the people and
the story of 
